tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88336730638148097032024-02-07T13:15:56.548+02:00Travelling lifeLaurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-35807485356583032452012-02-20T11:28:00.000+02:002012-02-20T11:28:27.359+02:00The cats come out to play at MashatuWe knew the rest of our stay at Mashatu would find it difficult to live up to the first mornings drive, but it did a very good job of keeping us entertained none the less! Each morning we would set out about 15 minutes before the sun rose, painting the beautiful landscape in gold and red. Each afternoon, after drinks and snacks we would go on a slightly less productive drive, stopping for sundowners, followed by an evening of dodging the plethora of bugs which seemed to aim for mouths and noses. I always find morning drives the most exciting, as you wake filled with the expectation of a new day, and with no idea what could have happened during the night. As the vehicle turns each corner, I get a little jolt of excitement, anticipating something interesting to be just ahead. And sometimes it is.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hyena in the Devil Thorns</td></tr>
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The second morning got off to quite a slow start, with not much about. We went to the edge of the concession looking for lions, but finding none we stopped to have some coffee and a leg stretch. After coffee, it often feels as though the best part of the drive is over, but in this case it was just beginning.<br />
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Shortly after coffee our guide found us the diminutive Pearl Spotted owlet sitting in a huge Mashatu tree. I was almost giddy with excitement, as this was only my second opportunity to photograph one, the first having resulted in zero images and quite a sulky face. I was quick this time, and managed quite volley of shots before the bird flew into a less desirable position. Not my best, but certainly my first, images of my favourite African owl.<br />
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We drove on, with me now feeling like the drive had been mightily successful when we came to a sudden stop at another large Mashatu tree. There were a couple of bones beneath it, but they were old and whitened by the sun. Around the opposite side were a few fresh spindly impala lamb legs, but without any meat on them, and therefore unlikely to still have the leopard that had killed them in attendance. Then, after another lap of the tree Moolman spotted them- not just one, but two leopards lounging high in the canopy, quite relaxed and well camouflaged and out of view.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I LOVE the eyes of leopards</td></tr>
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It then became a game of reverse, go forward, reverse as I tried to find an angle that allowed a relatively clear shot.<br />
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One of the leopards, a youngster, got up and began harassing the other, looking for attention. She was clearly bored, and proceeded to explore the whole tree, making for some very entertaining viewing.<br />
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I had seen these leopard half a year ago when I had been on a photographic safari in Mashatu, and how they had grown! We spent a good 40 minutes watching them, until they eventually exited the tree and disappeared across the plain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the cubs when she was small</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mother posing in the crook of a Mashatu Tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favourite image from the morning</td></tr>
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Now, it had been a very successful morning, and was time to head back for some breakfast. We did try to, but about a kilometer away spotted yet another leopard lounging in a dry riverbed! This leopard began to hunt, unsuccessfully, until it walked under a small tree which had ANOTHER leopard in it! This was another of the youngsters I had seen before, and seemed to have been sharing a meal with the young male we had just seen. We followed as they walked along the bank, right up until the point they walked into a lioness and had to make a hasty retreat up another tree. Yes, I do realise this sounds a bit fictional, but its all real. The lioness had an impala kill which it seemed she had stolen from the leopards the previous night.<br />
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Surprisingly, there was nothing else to see on our way back...Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-19304778220837542402012-02-12T13:32:00.000+02:002012-02-12T13:32:31.762+02:00Summer in Mashatu<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large wild mushroom at sunset</td></tr>
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</div>I was recently invited to spend five nights in Mashatu at one of their private camps - Rock Camp. A work associate of my dad's has time share at Rock Camp, and so very generously took us along for their trip!<br />
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The heading 'Summer in Mashatu' might seem to be misleading when you see the images I took over the six days I was there, because the grass was very very short, as short as during my previous stay in June last year, and there was hardly any water around. The bush is therefore DRY! This is a positive for game viewing, as animals are much easier to follow, although may be a problem later on in the year if the rain doesn't arrive soon. In any case, our stay there provided us with beautiful weather, not too hot, not too cold, a good tan and plenty of very enjoyable cat sightings.<br />
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Anyone who has stayed at Mashatu will know that unless the Limpopo River is quite low, the only way across it is by cable car - a small cage on a pulley system that transports everything you bring across the river. It's quite a bit of fun, standing suspended over the wide swiftly flowing river, trying to spot crocodiles as you go, and hoping your camera equipment makes it unharmed to the opposite bank. At Rock Camp, you self cater - and we had an amazing caterer in the form of Roberts Wife, Tanya, who surprised us at every meal with something new. The most memorable of these in my opinion was a garlic bread that had been filled with sliced beef fillet such that the fillet was infused with delicious garlic flavour, and the bread with that of rare meat. Another memorable meal was a huge prawn braai - done over the coals in the Boma - and enough to make us all feel stuffed by the end of it!<br />
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Mashatu has provided me with a few rather exciting lion sightings. Usually lions are quite inanimate: sleeping, perhaps licking themselves or yawning. Our first morning we found a large pride of lions in a great open clearing, resting on the red-orange soil. Before long a few of the youngsters spotted a steenbok, wandering unawares into the clearing. All of a sudden they were in stalk mode, silently moving one paw at a time in the direction of the buck. As they were spotted, the steenbok shot off, lions in hot pursuit, but without any real chance of success with such a large initial gap between them.<br />
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This burst of energy did however wake the other youngsters up, and four of them traipsed off to attack a tree and each other. One by one they would throw themselves at the small tree, grabbing a branch with a paw and falling down, still clinging to it. The next lion would then land atop the first, a small scuffle ensuing, before they both jumped up and set off after one another, tails raised and paws at the ready. After a while they tired of attacking the tree, and went to rejoin the rest of the pride, but not before posing on a fallen tree for photos.<br />
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One of the other lions had taken an interest in a bush, which was evidently good for climbing on. He would jump onto it, balancing precariously before his weight got to much and the bush dumped him on the ground. He would then start the process again. This game caught on very quickly, and soon there were four lions all climbing onto the bush and being dumped unceremoniously onto the hard ground. The young males are around two years old, and as such wont be able to remain with the pride much longer due to pressure from their father. While we were there he decided he had had enough of the rowdy behavior of his one son, and walked up to him purposefully. Then he attacked, a spitting, swirly, angry flurry of claws and paws. The youngster defended himself, snarling and smacking at his father, claws extended. All too soon it was over, and the youngster lay growling while the dad scent marked a few bushes and lay down again. Within ten minutes it was back to playing attack the bush. Quite an exciting morning! And it wasn't even over yet...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing quite like an accommodating tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Father and son</td></tr>
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After some much needed coffee and chocolate cookies, we set off for the second half of our drive. It wasn't long before we found a young male leopard resting in the shade in a dry riverbed. The riverbeds are one of the best features of Mashatu game viewing, often providing a backdrop to some or other leopard sighting, or to a herd of thirsty elephant. We had been on our way to one of the more popular spots for elephant to drink when our guide had spotted the leopard. The sand is a beautiful colour, full of iron oxides or something equally lovely to look at. We sat watching this male as he relaxed, completely unconcerned by our presence. A few impala were grazing in the distance, which he kept an eye on as he yawned and rolled about. Next thing we knew a small township dog trotted down the opposite bank of the river, making a bee line for us. My heart began to pump, the last thing I would want to hear is a little dog being killed. I say hear as I think the sound of a yelping dog would be too much for me, being a serious dog lover myself. Without thinking I began calling the dog, clicking my fingers and shouting 'Here boy...'. One of the other people with us also began calling the dog. Her husband, Bruce, couldn't believe the two of us - and logically wondered what on earth we planned on doing if we succeded in getting the dog's attention. The leopard was now on high alert, motionless and crouched, ready to pounce. It would certainly not allow us to just pick up its next meal and drive off with it!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Noticing the dog</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to pounce</td></tr>
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Fortunately the dog (Snoepie as he was later christened) ignored us, and trotted past the vehicle to within a couple of metres of the leopard, without noticing it. As it passed the leopard, the cat sprang into action, launching itself at Snoepie and connecting with the dogs back legs. I sat still, the poor little dog was going to die and there was nothing we could do. As the leopards claws connected with Snoepie, he turned and barked blue murder at the leopard, who was now sporting a look of serious surprise on its face. Within second the leopard was up a nearby (and very small) tree, and the dog stood howling blue murder at the terrified cat. We could NOT believe our eyes - this was one hell of a surprise. Snoepie, satsified that the cat had learnt a lesson, now trotted off (presumably to find some lions who needed to be taught a lesson or two). It was certainly not your average morning in the bush!<br />
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We ended the morning off somewhat quietly, watching a few elephant slaking their thirst. Rather uneventfully (in comparison) some of the elephant stumbled upon a lioness, trumpeting loudly until she retreated up the river bank (this within a few hundred metres of Snoepie and the leopard). It was one of those mornings: unrepeatable, amazing and unforgetable. A real highlight of bush viewing, and one of the reasons why it's so exciting- you just never know whats around the corner.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant calf charging down to bank</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-10085123666995299372012-01-10T20:43:00.000+02:002012-01-10T20:43:11.628+02:00Kruger: The final chapter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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It was with some great sadness that I found myself enjoying the last few days of my Kruger stay. It's always a surprise how quickly time seems to have gone when you get to the end of a trip, although looking back, some of the memories feel so far away. What a trip it has been! Not only because I was alone for the most part, but because I could relax as I drove, appreciating smaller things without the rush of knowing you only have a few days to find your photographic targets.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The two images below are of a Yellow Billed hornbill whose nest I found. Hornbill females are coaxed into the hollowed out tree trunk, and they pull out their feathers to make a soft lining for the eggs. The male then seals the female and eggs inside, so that no predators can get to them, and he becomes responsible for feeding them until he unseals the nest chamber. This means that he is constantly flying back and forth carrying food to his new family!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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One of my last three nights was spent with a friend's parents who were also staying at Satara. We braaied and chatted well into the night, and I only fell asleep somewhere around 12.30am. Being that there were only two full days left, we woke at 4am, tired, slightly hungover and yet not wanting to miss a moment out in the park. Shortly after leaving camp we came across a pride of lions in the road, 1 male, 4 females and 2 cubs. Being first on the scene we were able to set the 'stopping distance' a respectable way off, and watched them for nearly half an hour before someone decided they should push forward, eventually forcing the lions off the road into the bushes. Our last morning the same lions were again seen, but this time the cars who arrived first drove straight up onto them, causing the male to panic and run wildly away, the cubs in hot pursuit. We left then.<br />
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We had some beautiful light, some very good lion sightings, and even a leopard. While watching one pride of lions, a male and female walked up to the only small car in sight, which had just arrived on the scene, and began to peer through the back window of it. I could not believe my eyes! I think I would have been pleased to have it happen to me, but the person in the little car did not look very impressed when we drove past him afterwards.<br />
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We were also fortunate enough to come across a new born Wildbeest calf. It was still wet, with afterbirth on it and the mother, and we must have missed the birth by about 5 minutes, as the baby was still learning to stand. It was quite exciting though, watching it taking its tentative first steps, trying to suckle and learning that it could run (even if not in the direction it intended)<br />
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My final day in the park, I wished for a leopard in a tree. Not having been specific enough in my wish, Kruger provided a leopard in a tree, just not the right tree for photography :) lesson learnt!<br />
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When we did leave the park, I felt sad, tired and excited for sushi and a duvet, and to see my dog. Sushi is one of those things I cannot help but crave, given a week without it. And there is nothing better than a soft duvet on a bed, even if it is wet from a certain Golden Retriever who likes to dry himself off on it after a swim.<br />
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I think that the six weeks in the park were the best thing I could have done, as it gave me time to think, time to relax, time to try and improve my photography. Hopefully one day I will be able to call some great wilderness area home, but until then at least I have my travels!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ5IKfvNhnUXH3C9Ko2v6hocSQNoPUu4V72NywAn25HL05oo45F9dvYbvmNYRruSmuRCNYCHa8lMLGxEaf_YHniR0qr2QhqA1xlMEfUWlhdzlQOyX13EeQaqL1vS_0lDiz-6Piiv0zGc4/s1600/_MG_0154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ5IKfvNhnUXH3C9Ko2v6hocSQNoPUu4V72NywAn25HL05oo45F9dvYbvmNYRruSmuRCNYCHa8lMLGxEaf_YHniR0qr2QhqA1xlMEfUWlhdzlQOyX13EeQaqL1vS_0lDiz-6Piiv0zGc4/s400/_MG_0154.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two young waterbuck testing their strength at sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dwarf Mongoose at home</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vulture at sunrise</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-24156886788267543202012-01-05T11:08:00.001+02:002012-01-05T11:35:19.459+02:00Satara and the lions: My last stop in Kruger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on the S100</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Satara: One of my favourite camps, and the last on my Kruger route. It is however very busy at this time of year! The stay started extremely well, with a little bit of the magic that the S100 road is known for. We drove the road as soon as the gates opened, without too many other cars, and soon enough we came across a lone male lion in the distance. The light was low, and he was slowly moving away, so we moved off. Not long after that a few hyena materialized in front of us, carrying the horns and skin of what looked like a Wildebeest, and running, each pulling in a different direction. As our eyes got used to the light, we saw more hyena running about, apparently quite excited, with their tails raised, occasionally emitting yelps or giggles. One of the hyena began to call, a low call, followed by a high pitched one, which is done with their heads close to the ground, possibly to magnify the sound. It is a call which is often done when they are calling in reinforcements, as it can be heard over long distances. We couldn't see what could have required reinforcements, but the hyenas' excitement was enough that we sat watching them as they argued over legs and skin, chasing each other about. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHaYDOLi7UJcoxgWvtSU6sP7BSJLTFfl6uCesnT57Dwv8bh66R_3cF7VXwPlaP2f1Kbu06fc5pHMAsZhRlzGizTZYTf-K7DMyvZCll_tB6KPUjUku-zmKimAcqEewZWQbyWjDc0wkY6ug/s1600/_DSC3140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHaYDOLi7UJcoxgWvtSU6sP7BSJLTFfl6uCesnT57Dwv8bh66R_3cF7VXwPlaP2f1Kbu06fc5pHMAsZhRlzGizTZYTf-K7DMyvZCll_tB6KPUjUku-zmKimAcqEewZWQbyWjDc0wkY6ug/s400/_DSC3140.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Before long, two male lion rumps appeared in the air, apparently eating in the longish grass off to the side - the hyena kept drawing nearer to them, but were relatively tentative. We sat there, watching the scene when someone pointed out that there were lions. We told them we knew. They then pointed behind us. As we turned, we saw another two males, with very impressive manes and stature marching purposefully out of the river bed. They had clearly heard the commotion, and were there to investigate. it took them about ten minutes before they noticed the two feeding lions. We had presumed they were a coalition, but suddenly they were on edge, unsure of whether to back away, or move forward. They stood a while, watching, with the other two lions completely unaware. All of a sudden they began to stalk towards the lion rumps in the grass. One obviously spotted the danger, and disappeared quickly, the other still completely unawares. Before he could register his brother's absence, the two newcomers were off after him, and they sprinted across the dusty S100, with us struggling to keep up, and keep them in sight. It is one exciting thing to see a male lion in full tilt - gone were the sleepy images of male lions who barely lift a head in acknowledgement of your presence: these were impressive killers, their gait powerful and their strides each full of intent. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We lost them a few kilometres later, but did find yet another male lion, keeping his head low as he smelt the bushes and ground where he walked. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLznAEvu_Ef2_ZgyWnIMHLTagul8toRxTH4Yq2w4Y2za1dz3s9fqYPjsRHs3FtC5LiBlEg6tsC-w5IRaNx67aSM9y-NYnGmQdF23-qAIAnsdjgBDy958c4Mk2XuJdBFiYaCQZ3wKWSqRE/s1600/_MG_8607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLznAEvu_Ef2_ZgyWnIMHLTagul8toRxTH4Yq2w4Y2za1dz3s9fqYPjsRHs3FtC5LiBlEg6tsC-w5IRaNx67aSM9y-NYnGmQdF23-qAIAnsdjgBDy958c4Mk2XuJdBFiYaCQZ3wKWSqRE/s400/_MG_8607.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The prudent male who kept his head low and out of the way</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbc_Ncn50KtWtpwfrvwtX2-KtU5y0elEBfF6CmTlparzEZA3KnZ_KMeohlMxcLNSY8DcSnUojm_HWkaUSJC3ZXGVhcM5niXreri70D1S4zlJjffmfs7hPJ_6p492QOSyG0XNMGm8_2TM/s1600/_DSC3088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbc_Ncn50KtWtpwfrvwtX2-KtU5y0elEBfF6CmTlparzEZA3KnZ_KMeohlMxcLNSY8DcSnUojm_HWkaUSJC3ZXGVhcM5niXreri70D1S4zlJjffmfs7hPJ_6p492QOSyG0XNMGm8_2TM/s400/_DSC3088.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alarming Impala</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2OHvIs6l7Vo6dx1oCpQpBAg5FZ9WV8B9TP4x6BRdKHCxQP4yb_GT0ZAwdZ38wj0b39DL73oObHYnoiF1ILdxQVAhaaV_mA0X1dE0WNDNzyNLC_9OuSahgYqqc18JJ2ucqBYUnWGGtVo/s1600/_DSC3591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2OHvIs6l7Vo6dx1oCpQpBAg5FZ9WV8B9TP4x6BRdKHCxQP4yb_GT0ZAwdZ38wj0b39DL73oObHYnoiF1ILdxQVAhaaV_mA0X1dE0WNDNzyNLC_9OuSahgYqqc18JJ2ucqBYUnWGGtVo/s400/_DSC3591.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood textures</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Many of our drives around Satara have produced large herds of buffalo and elephant. One herd of buffalo must have had upward of 400 animals, many calves, and some huge old bulls in it. They are very impressive, as the they materialize out of the trees, and continue to do so for ages, a seemingly never ending supply of horns and hooves. In the sighting pictured below, the animals took turns drinking and swimming in a large dam. A hippo was not well pleased with their presence, and would swim right up to them, stopped centimeters from their legs and yawn and open his mouth in a very disgruntled manner. He gave up when a big herd of elephant began streaming down on the opposite side of the dam, obviously realizing there would be no peace until they decided to leave of their own accord.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuCHTcYdu3vE8hBTnvCMWIrmRFXeodNLmLaxp3sfSYvs4782O0BoMU4B4iQJavl87XvdOIiC_5RNW8a00V9qWnPTc3JVJ9k9SvrXMtYuhmZATriIUEymxAyiIO238yiFE1c-PyArA8Y8/s1600/_DSC3520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuCHTcYdu3vE8hBTnvCMWIrmRFXeodNLmLaxp3sfSYvs4782O0BoMU4B4iQJavl87XvdOIiC_5RNW8a00V9qWnPTc3JVJ9k9SvrXMtYuhmZATriIUEymxAyiIO238yiFE1c-PyArA8Y8/s400/_DSC3520.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Satara camp</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheetah just after sunset</td></tr>
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Clearly the cats have been good in the area, and in the three days we have spent here so far we have had a number of lion sightings, as well as two cheetah late one night, and a leopard early one morning. The leopard sighting was the result of what I call (jokingly) my 'Mad Bush Skills'. I had heard some guinea fowl making a 'brrrrrrr kakakaka' sound repetitively, and had a vague recollection of hearing this sound before while watching a leopard in Etosha National Park. Guinea fowl are noisy animals, with many calls, but this time I was sure that the call meant 'predator'. We sat for about 10 minutes, scouring the bush, before out on the road infront of us popped a beautiful female leopard, her eyes bright and round in the predawn light. She didn't stick around for very long, but it was rewarding none the less, and seieng this cat is always a great thrill!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The S100 delivered again on our second day at Satara, this time with a sighting of two male lions and a female. One of them was presumably keen on mating with her, as she kept on slapping him away whenever he came too close. I had my head out of the window while photographing, up until the point when the lions head filled the frame and I realized he was moving past out vehicle not a meter away from me. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit close for comfort</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Years Day on the tropic of Capricorn</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It has been wonderful having someone to share driving with, and to braai with - I have really enjoyed the evening sitting out on the stoep, stars above and the smell of braai wafting past my nose, having a chat about the day, and looking forward to the next. I even had the opportunity to test out my new telescope, and got some serious close up views of the moon's craters, crystal clear and bright in the night sky. I cannot wait to get a night where there is less of a moon, to look at some stars close up! The memories I have of Sossusvlei and the telescope there (although a lot bigger than mine) and the incredible time I had!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-29557327089087743892012-01-01T12:52:00.001+02:002012-01-01T12:57:39.459+02:00Seeing in the new year at Mopani<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: left;">Happy New Year to everyone- I hope that your years will be filled with happiness, laughter and a good dose of travel. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcSeQbEJKjtUBWrSDCEORZeApzi5uswy2KUn_SCLK-zEAI3D9NCqndeN8OzL-FyjD5NBk5RIwlzUDi4vyZLRB0QYXGAbTjnieJJTs1ptTCLkjoxf3WOBYYIlbvfkHcKUJK9jTXGY7mj7c/s1600/_MG_7404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcSeQbEJKjtUBWrSDCEORZeApzi5uswy2KUn_SCLK-zEAI3D9NCqndeN8OzL-FyjD5NBk5RIwlzUDi4vyZLRB0QYXGAbTjnieJJTs1ptTCLkjoxf3WOBYYIlbvfkHcKUJK9jTXGY7mj7c/s400/_MG_7404.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">Mopani- so named for the Mopani Scrub that surrounds the camp and makes spotting game a little more challenging! In truth it’s not that bad, as a controlled fire may have been run through here relatively recently, and some areas are not thick at all! The Mopani worms are also slowly taking the toll on the vegetation, leaving some tree’s stripped completely bare. Each day I can notice the further leaf loss, they are quite a force of nature.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">It appears that Black Bellied Bustard breeding season is now in full tilt- as I drive the gravel roads I spot Bustard after bustard. It seems as though they each have a display ground, which they use with great gusto, and don’t like to leave, and that the next bustard is just out of sight, preening himself and displaying as well. As I spot a black blob in the road ahead, I slow down. A small head peers at me, beady eyed. It bends towards its rump, preening, pulling through the feathers there with a deliberate ease, plucking an errant feather here, or straightening one there. How they know which are ‘errant’ is beyond me, as there plumage looks beautiful. Each tail feather is ruffled outward, making them look bigger and far more impressive than usual. When they feel ready, they stare at me, and stretch their lithe necks heavenward, open they beaks and call. A long whistling kind of sound happens, then the neck is tucked toward the check and a strange ‘pop’ follows. Then the beady eye surveys the surrounding area, before coming again to rest on me, daring me to mimic it. I do frequently, but not with nearly as much beauty or grace. Many people call them the ‘Champagne bird’ as when they call, it sounds like a champagne cork being popped. </div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Bellied Bustard calling</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">On the night of the 29<sup>th</sup>, shortly after arriving back at camp, the lions began to call. Their roars echoed around the camp, sounding alarming as though they were coming from the parking lot where I had left my car! Oh well… The whole night they were calling, and I could here them over the soft hum of my aircon cooling the chalet. In fact, they called until 4.30 am on the dot. It is uncanny the ability a lion has to know when guests are leaving the camp. I had discussed with the gate guard where he imagined they were, and as I agreed, that’s the direction I took. I had been hoping for a call to orientate myself, but all there was, was silence, and the call of cicadas and the odd kingfisher. I even switched off the car and sat in the dark, but no such luck! I did however spot a leopard, not far out of the gate, just strolling along, belly full, muscles bunched. It walked silently past my window, turned, and strolled off into the Mopani scrub. What thrills me the most is that no matter how many leopards I see, each and every one gives me a small dose of adrenalin, and butterflies in my tummy. I hope that never stops! </div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">I am not sure whether it is just today, but the Mopani worms seem to be in full force, out on the roads, either fat bellies, or flat from car tyres as they cross in streams. Even if one is aware of them, and drives carefully, there are bound to be a few casualties. I photographed quite a few, but the looks I got started to make me worried about my sanity. People would pull up and ask, and not only was it not a bird (those people just shrug off), it was a worm!! A few people just laughed at my sheepish expression, but a good deal shook their heads as they drove off. It seems as though there are three colours they come in, lumo green, Yellow and brown or orange and brown. I will definitely check up on the reason behind this! I can only presume the green ones are juveniles, and the other two are adults of different sexes. The green ones have no spikes, and seem to rely on camouflage to avoid the sharp beaks of the hornbills who love them so. The other two both have sharp spikes and dagger like spines along their bodies. These are the ones that cross the road, presumably relying on their weapons for protection from all but man. </div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Tasty' Mopani worms</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">There were also quite a few chameleons trying to cross roads, and having seen too many flat ones, decided I would keep watch over them just in case. One in particular, who had turned a sandy brown colour, refused to move while I was near. I could see a car coming, so when they pulled up, I hopped out and moved him across the road. His toes gripped so strongly onto my hand, and being about 15cm long, his tail was able to get a very solid grip on my baby finger. When I put him on the bush towards which he was heading, it took me a while to get him to let go! Then the car pulled up next to me and say “Hi Laura!”.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">What a small world, it was a family, a couple of which had been on a photographic safari with me in Mashatu in June… I must say, it was quite good to see a familiar face! </div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">The 31<sup>st</sup> of December dawned, and I was awake at 2.27am, and began to get ready. I had ‘heard’ my alarm clock in my sleep. Once I realized, I drifted off again, and woke at 4, full of excitement as I was off to the airport to pick up someone very cool to spend the next week with! I did a short loop before heading off, and found the animals responsible for the roaring a couple f nights ago. There were four relatively large and very fat male lions, and one lioness who was being mated with by the largest of the four. They could not have been more than five years old, but they looked a force to be reckoned with. </div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">On the trip to the airport, I also found an elephant herd that were behaving rather oddly, smelling the air, crowding and touching one another. They kept moving off the road, and back on again, and when they did finally clear off for good, there was a pink pile of afterbirth lying on the road. I had seen a tiny calf, but I am not sure if it was the newborn, as it seemed to have better control over legs and trunk than I would f expected. Either way, how lovely to know there is a new gentle giant on earth, born the last day of 2011. On that note, I should add that 2011 has been the best year of my life, full of incredible adventures and people. If 2012 can do even half as well, I will be well pleased!</div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some quality camouflage</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">When I arrived at the airport, having beaten my GPS who again wanted to lead me via some town off the beaten track, I had a coffee and waited… I didn’t have to wait long before my Best friend walked off the plane, carrying the biggest present I have ever seen! I opened it straight away, and inside was a box labeled ‘Celestron Nexstar 4SE’. It was a telescope, with a keypad that you input the galaxy, star, constellation etc on to, and it finds it for you automatically! How very exciting, surely the most surprising and well though out gift ever! Now to enroll in the astronomy course through the English university I have been speaking of for so long. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">Last night we braaied, a delicious Beef Espetada, some potato's and a bottle of Sparkling Wine as we listened to the frogs calling, enjoying the last night of an amazing year. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-76594897310043357902011-12-27T22:09:00.001+02:002011-12-27T22:31:29.215+02:00Rain, Cats, Frogs and Christmas at Exeter!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I was so over-excited as I left Kruger on the 23<sup>rd</sup> of December, a feeling I have never before felt - but that's because this time I was off to fetch my dad and brother for a trip to Exeter River Lodge, in the Sabi Sands, for Christmas. True to form I got a bit lost, as the Phalaborwa area is abysmally signposted, but I made my way eventually on to the R40, direction Nelspruit. Not long after I had left Kruger, I got a call to say that the plane from Cape Town was to be delayed at least three hours, as it was broken, and a new part needed to be flown down from Johannesburg. Oh well… at least this would give me a chance to drop in at Landrover to check why the brake pad light was on. Three hours, and four new brake pads which should never have been worn through but somehow were and I arrived at the airport just in the nick of time, with two hours to spare. It's always a great start to a trip, missing the first drive due to a delayed flight! It had also begun to rain, and the roads leading to the Sabi Sands Shaws gate were waterlogged! When we did get there, we were treated to the warm friendly smiles, and welcome drinks which the &Beyond group is so adept at providing, and all was well. I had some people to talk to, dinner was ready, and that night I slept deeply, curled up under a fluffy duvet, the sound of rain pattering down all around. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flapjacks in the bush, made by our awesome Chef, Dave. </td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The following morning dawned, shall we say, damp. The few hours of drive which we diligently and eagerly managed ensured that I was completely waterlogged, my hands wrinkled as though after a long bath. There was not an inch of my clothing which was dry, but I was happy, in beautiful surroundings, and welcomed back to the lodge with Amarula and Hot Chocolate, how could anyone complain?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> </div><div class="MsoNormal">That afternoon, the skies had cleared slightly, so I managed to remain dry, but game viewing was none the less quite slow. The whole trip seemed as though it would be ‘slow’ relative to the usual spark of the Sands. In amoungst the slowness however, some serious greatness emerged. On the rainy morning drive, we did some serious frogging - I mean ranger (Mark) and tracker (Jack) flying off the vehicle after frogs, and bringing them to the waterlogged people for a better view. There were Bullfrogs, Rain frogs, Banded Rubber frogs with bright red stripes across their black bodies. There were ‘Plat-Anna’s’, a very flat frog, and others which we watched although could not identify. It was actually great fun, and something different from the norm to see the frogs lining the roads which had turned into streams in some places, fast flowing rivers in others. That first day the Sands received 92mm of rain. That afternoon we saw two of the Mapogo Male lions, the first lions two of the other guests had ever seen. </div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grooming on the termite mound</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paddy Paws</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">The morning after the rain it was again cloudy, but, spirits high, we started tracking a female leopard Hlangisa. She is the leopard I first saw as a tiny cub, high up in a tree over two years ago. Now fully independent, and beautiful, we were very keen to see her. Three hours of tracking, and still nothing. The tracks had led us back and forth- typical of a leopard whose name means ‘Playful’ in Shangaan, the local language. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was time to give up, and we stopped to enjoy coffee and talk about the bush. After coffee, and five minutes of driving, there she was. Hlangisa, atop a termite mound, next to the road we had driven, waiting for us, surprised it had taken so long for us to catch up. Everyone else had already headed back to their respective lodges, so we were able to view her uninterrupted as she posed on the mound, groomed herself, walked about and eventually settled in a tree, scanning for prey. What a magnificent reward for the time spent! She has filled out quite a bit since I last saw her in April, and is looked far more mature in my opinion. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Hlangisa was to become the theme of the trip. We saw no other leopard in four days, but we did see her three times, all excellent sighting, enjoyed alone, and for as long as we wanted, with no other vehicles to push us out of the sighting. </div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Hlangisa posing</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Other highlights were seeing the two Mapogo with a buffalo kill, too full to feed, but also too full to lie down in their usual pose. We viewed two young Ottawa Pride males, sons of the Mapogos but who appeared to have been in some sort of fight with their fathers, as they had a few cuts and were soaking wet, as though they had landed in a dam to escape the onslaught. We managed to view the Shimungwe pride, and their four cubs of various ages, although true to form, these did indeed sleep! </div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Makulu Mapogo- still gojng strong at 13 or so</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> </div><div class="MsoNormal">That night, we bore witness to quite a spectacle. After such a high volume of rain, the termite mounds exploded. Here, unlike what I saw in Kruger, the Fungus termites, the ones which build the huge mounds, were released onto their mounds, where soldier ants gathered to protect them before their maiden flight. Their large bodies attached to larger wings, preparing for flight. At one mound, each termite that took off was systematically zapped by a barn swallow, as it attemted to leave. We could see each tiny kill happen, as all that was needed was to keep a sharp eye on each termite. Even a blind person could have understood what was happening around them, as each time a swallow grabbed a termite, there was a very audible ‘click’ as his beak collided with it, and he flew off. At some mounds there were no birds, and the termites took off in swarms, the sound of brittle wings fluttering in the cool, crisp air. That night I am sure there were some well fed frogs, birds and small mammals…</div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJMEHl7v_sxPVKAkd7vsHq9ch8h-MMSbm-95bqgEl4tlpCJBmCulHvHHBPaitmYnTRNI4CI868vtR0Smmj9V8SlwodezkPhKyE6SaEbwYHTkfdVFyxUsoWMBPPViwbPtXcaCQwnsQd1c/s1600/_MG_6434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJMEHl7v_sxPVKAkd7vsHq9ch8h-MMSbm-95bqgEl4tlpCJBmCulHvHHBPaitmYnTRNI4CI868vtR0Smmj9V8SlwodezkPhKyE6SaEbwYHTkfdVFyxUsoWMBPPViwbPtXcaCQwnsQd1c/s400/_MG_6434.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Termite Explosion</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foam- Nest Tree Frogs laying their eggs inside a white foam which hardens until the tadpoles are ready to drop</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flap- Neck Chamelion crossing</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">On one drive we saw a White Rhino calf which was at most a week old, very tiny, and nervous, hiding underneath its mother. We also saw a large calf pushing against a bull Rhino, to keep it away from his mother - very cute and rather surprising considering the size difference! Elephant and large buffalo herds were around in great numbers, and waw general game such as giraffe, Wildebeest (surprisingly for the Western Sector of the Sands) and impala. </div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">To celebrate Christmas (the main reason for the timing of this short break) there was a tree, covered in lights in the main area. Christmas eve we had Christmas Crackers and Cocktails with dinner, Christmas day, an incredible Ginger-Bread-Man cake, Pumpkin pie and Mince pies. The food was in steady supply, and all delicious! It made a real change from two minute noodles or steak which I had become used to…</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">As a result of the overcast weather, we did a walk one morning, to see the area on foot, and get a better view of the smaller things such as tracks and insects. I felt like I was part of a troupe of baboons, as four of us walked around, hunched over sticking long grasses down the nests of Baboon Spiders to provoke a reaction. We did the same to Lion Ants, and had a lot of fun- it was one of the best bush walks I have been on.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing Gingerbread- Mad- House</td></tr>
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> <div class="MsoNormal">The final sunset drive, after viewing the lion pride, and a few Gin and Dry Lemons, we went into a sighting of Hlangisa. No one else was interested, and we were left alone with her. At first she was grooming, walked here and there alert as always. Then she spotted a herd of impala, and as the sky darkened, she began to hunt them. It was wonderful to see her belly crawl on the road, to hear the impala moving about, hear them spot her and begin to snort. We sat with her as she waited patiently for them to relax, and as she again attempted to gain some ground, stealthy under the cover of darkness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She didn’t manage to kill one that night, but it was a wonderful precursor to the final morning drive. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><!--EndFragment--><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbq-CbIKHr0Buzdw_b5-R0UwQtZQ9VlVe84-ErtX3dy7oclddXgfGBZj_rjy9BmSa3OXE6NLieH389Go1Y0qWwJss4ydvHUkclKUySLa_5UclUpf47lhvb2BSSnAodMAad5NXWq0-qJq4/s1600/_MG_6809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbq-CbIKHr0Buzdw_b5-R0UwQtZQ9VlVe84-ErtX3dy7oclddXgfGBZj_rjy9BmSa3OXE6NLieH389Go1Y0qWwJss4ydvHUkclKUySLa_5UclUpf47lhvb2BSSnAodMAad5NXWq0-qJq4/s400/_MG_6809.jpg" width="268" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Our last day dawned overcast, I was sad as I was again to be alone, and, as all of the guests on our vehicle were leaving, we put in our last minute requests. Hyena featured strongly on the list, as the other guests had never seen them. Not being a trackable animal, we didn’t hold out much hope, until one appeared standing curiously in the road ahead of us. We viewed it with excitement, at having ticked off the wish list's main item so early in the morning! Then we heard the whoops coming from a short way away - the hyena did too, and loped off, in a hurry. We took a road which seemed to go into the correct area and found a lioness, her face bloody from a recent meal, standing and watching as her carcass was stolen by a pack of seven hyena. They were excited, tails up, whooping and whining, and she moved slowly off. Still within a kilometer of the lodge, everyone was very happy! </div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style>
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</style> <![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> </div><div class="MsoNormal">It was then leopard tracking time, and after leaving the trackers to go off on foot, we got stuck in the mud just after they called in to say they had seen the leopard, but it had run off. The car which was to pull us out of the mud also became stuck, and so a third vehicle lent a hand. Now out of the mud, we were informed that it was a very skittish young male, who would be difficult to view. Instead, we went and set up coffee on a small clearing, our last for that Exeter trip.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Hlangisa was our last sighting. All other vehicles had left the area when we arrived with her, and she had a treat in store for us. After some aimless wandering around, changing direction and listening to everything around her she suddenly stood stock still, her tail twitching at high speed, as she began to lift her back paws up and down excitedly. She did this on the spot for what felt like ages, before all of a sudden jumping into the air and pouncing, then chasing a tiny impala lamb which had been hiding in the tall grass. She grabbed the lamb by the neck and it bleated, legs kicking, as she slowly bit into the soft cartilage, crushing the wind pipe. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was so close to us, holding her prize in her mouth, watching us and listening for the sound of another predator<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>which ma have heard the calls. When she dropped the lamb, it gave a few last futile kicks with its tiny legs before lying still. It was really really special, watching this leopard over the four days, seeing her going about her daily rituals, hunting and finally, 12 hours later, making a kill right infront of our vehicle. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Even when it rains, Exeter can surely deliver!!!</div><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span id="goog_275896730"></span><span id="goog_275896731"></span></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-10520193580210667012011-12-23T14:06:00.002+02:002011-12-23T14:19:17.898+02:00Quiet days at the river<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56GzQj9fws-qMam7q9GKucdYTswkLsOFdl_GuuP33gGtke6r9wnB4m8k8PQiJY4-ECPc_jkIzPybL_v3tGt-S9839vvaFJoBLXSuJnLEYvbnOhAzskTQ5xthXytllmtgS7avfPDSrVMU/s1600/_MG_5545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56GzQj9fws-qMam7q9GKucdYTswkLsOFdl_GuuP33gGtke6r9wnB4m8k8PQiJY4-ECPc_jkIzPybL_v3tGt-S9839vvaFJoBLXSuJnLEYvbnOhAzskTQ5xthXytllmtgS7avfPDSrVMU/s400/_MG_5545.jpg" width="290" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I spent a relatively quiet few days up at Shingwedzi, followed by a night at Letaba before I was to fetch my family at the airport. I did not take nearly as many photos as usual, nor did I really photograph any cats, although I did see leopard, lions and an African Wild Cat. This morning I did however get to photograph a leopard on my way out of the park. She was a beautiful female who moved from side to side of the road using the drainage lines underneath, much to my surprise. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCNG-nZ9drxw-3mz5EWz-vcH8A647ipfZRlFUSnfPggpIuL4GNVuuPj8UMukmyDIgREE7rWC2OThorWV5kWrU7sShTVd9Vb4ZszQFHS8sijhjjanC-SV5KQX1WKSPWYMBh_-y8Na_HO0/s1600/_DSC2137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCNG-nZ9drxw-3mz5EWz-vcH8A647ipfZRlFUSnfPggpIuL4GNVuuPj8UMukmyDIgREE7rWC2OThorWV5kWrU7sShTVd9Vb4ZszQFHS8sijhjjanC-SV5KQX1WKSPWYMBh_-y8Na_HO0/s400/_DSC2137.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Shingwedzi area has fantastic birding, and I saw Parrots, Broad-Billed Rollers, Bee eaters, Vultures, copious eagles and Woodlands kingfisher in abundance, as well as Fish Eagles, but these were mostly beyond the reach of my lens. I was also tired, so I did get some extra sleep (after a morning drive, of course). The weather was scorching, easily 40 some days!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kingfisher waking up - looks far better than I do!</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Buffalo herds were everywhere, large herds upwards of 200 animals plodded about, moo-ing like so many cattle as they walked. There were also large herds of elephant, and pods of hippo in the river and Kanniedood dam. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I wound my way along the river loops, stopping to listen as the birds called to one another, or to watch an impala chewing some grass. Some monkeys entertained me for a while, and it was enjoyable. I did miss photographing cats though, as I do love them, but I guess there have to be some quiet times so that you can appreciate the good ones! The highlight of these drives was for me seeing my first Roan Antelopes, stately animals, in a herd of 12. They were drinking at a waterhole, before moving off over the dry bush, into the sunlight and away. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impala early morning</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First rays of light!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the last rays of sun</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Now, I am off to the Sabi Sands for a few days with my family for Christmas. That is if their plane ever leaves Cape Town, already having been delayed over 3 hours as a part had to be flown down from Johannesburg. Oh well!! To be fair, the delay is not too bad for me, as I have to sit at Land Rover anyway, again having some different brake pads replaced. Oh the joys! At least there is great tasting coffee and an air-conditioned board room for me!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharpe's Grysbok</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-59801139746369914432011-12-18T21:14:00.001+02:002011-12-18T21:21:53.980+02:00Why bushveld summers rock! Kruger cont...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The woodlands and the fly</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The past few days have been very quiet on the cat front, but have provided me with some wonderful reasons as to why, despite this, I absolutely love summer here in the bush. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Romance</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">Two days ago, the day began at 2am for me when a huge crack of light shot me straight up in my bed. It was pouring with rain outside, thunder periodically bellowing, and to say I was nervous would be an understatement. Fortunately I was so tired that I did fall asleep again, and when I woke at 4am to make coffee for the drive, the thunder had stopped. Shortly after leaving the gate however, the heavens again opened, and it rained so hard I could barely see where I was going. Highly unlikely many cats would be about in this weather, but one of the reasons I love summer in the bushveld is the rain. When it rains like this, and soaks the earth, saturating every donga and gully, and creating new streams on every side. When the rain stops, everything springs to life. The earth smells beautiful and damp, the birds begin to call, and young animals race around, reveling in the water and the sun as it peeks out from behind the clouds. I did find a pack of hyena who were arguing over an old Wildebeest skeleton as the rain stopped. They were very nervous, and kept moving along the road, looking over their shoulders. </div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hyena with the 'prize' in motion</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new marsh formed by the storm</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The usually shy bushbuck</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another bad spell for the frogs!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preening hoopoo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young waterbuck at sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playful zebras after the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb02Crn7UEoO7-GE85WPS4yATYJMFKRNRS-0QkXW2BS-ndt_rPDQzMUsZrP8di74B9ch2v5xkjMOgqK9SgIsDWR4aY3t_vxIzGNRmip9CN4s7YPZdXhgzmWmMZWUBs7yTaf_SwzEYmOE/s1600/_MG_3205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb02Crn7UEoO7-GE85WPS4yATYJMFKRNRS-0QkXW2BS-ndt_rPDQzMUsZrP8di74B9ch2v5xkjMOgqK9SgIsDWR4aY3t_vxIzGNRmip9CN4s7YPZdXhgzmWmMZWUBs7yTaf_SwzEYmOE/s400/_MG_3205.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"and then..." said the demented zebra to the terrified oxpecker.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">In summer, the bush comes alive with bird song. The Woodlands Kingfishers arrive, and begin their shrill calls, and displaying their wings at every other kingfisher they see. These little birds are a delight to watch, and the past few days I got a couple of opportunities to photograph them in good light. I have never really spent the best light on birds, but this time I did, enjoying watching their movement, and the colours of their wings.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">One unmistakable bird, at any time of the year, is the Spurfowl. These birds are always heard, their unmelodious calls giving you a fright as you disturb them while driving. In the early morning they love to sit high on dead trees, welcoming the morning. They do the same before storms. They can be used to alert yourself to the presence of a predator when you hear their alarm calls, however they are quite unreliable, as they alarm at many things - you know what they say about a bird brain.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">Another call that makes me think of summer is that of the Red Crested Khorhaan. They have a distinctive call, and it can be heard throughout the bush as you drive, a sort of whistle, interspersed with clicks. I found one standing on a termite mound and calling for all the world (really just me and any potential lady friends) to see. They open their beaks as wide as possible, and stick their tongues up, making them quite photogenic especially in good light</span> </div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">The arrival of the huge flocks of queleas also signals the arrival of summer. And their wing beats as thousands of them take off and land as one can be heard from quite a distance, as can their chattering calls. What amazes me most is how none of them appear to collide in their frantic flight. Birds are really a mystery!</div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">After the heavy rains of two days ago, the termite mounds began erupting, with hundreds of potential queens sent out into the world on flimsy wings which only last for a short flight. The idea is that they are released when the ground has been softened by the rain, and, finding a mate, burrow into the ground and attempt to start a colony of their own. One landed in my car, a fat queen, never to fulfill her destiny. The birds cannot resist this feast, their plump bodies a nutrious fatty meal. All along the road sides, Go- Away- Birds, Eagles, Hawks, Spurfowl, Mongooses, Monkeys and others gathered to pick up the floundering termites. I had to drive quite carefully to avoid a massacre! Every day on the S100 road, I have seen a very skittish Brown Hooded Kingfisher who disappears the second I stop my car. With this feast, he couldn’t resist returning time and again to the road to gorge himself, so I finally managed to tie him down for long enough to take a shot! I had actually driven to the area I had seen him in on purpose, in the hope that he would oblige me.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baboon looking FAR too human for my liking.</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">Yesterday I witnessed something extremely special, which I have never before seen. The rains and the onset of summer signal the arrival of all the summer babies. The past three weeks, I have seen numerous new faces, Impala calves, Steenbok calves, Giraffe babies and more recently the Wildbeest began to arrive. Yesterday I was privileged enough to watch one arrive. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">The babies legs began slowly emerged from behind the Wildebees mother, covered in slime and there they stopped, as she heaved away, changing position, kneeling, lying flat, all the while her stomach muscles clenching as she tried to get the calf out. The rest of the small herd were quite curious, often nuzzling her, or sniffing at the unborn calfs feet. When the baby was about half way out, she turned around, so I could only watch the heaving and her facial expression before I saw a tiny head slip out, and stare in bewilderment at the world around it. The harsh midday sun must have been quite a shock to eyes which had never before seen light. Another calf which had been lying next to the birthing mother stared at it, unsure as to whether it had been there before, and with that the baby wildbeest met the first other member of his family. He sat blinking for a few minutes, covered in slime and dirt before trying to lift himself onto wobbly legs. Knowing how long it takes a human child to gain any control of their TWO legs, it is amazing that this calf gained any control of his FOUR! He fell forward with the first attemp, backwards with the second, The third try he managed to walk a few steps before one of the stick- like legs gave way and he again collapsed to the ground. His mother nuzzled him gently, encouraging him, as the other calf stared on. </div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hello bright world</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">A few minutes of trying and he had finally gained some control, and although he was clearly top heavy, he could attempt to follow his mother. Well, more accurately who he thought was his mother - a young male wildebeest who was rather confused by the sudden ‘affection’ of the calf. His actual mother trailed behind him, affectionately nibbling his bum, trying to clean off the afterbirth and get his attention. A few more falls, and nudges and he worked out who his real mother was and began to suckle. It was pure magic, so very special and although the photo’s cannot do any justice to the moment, as the light was harsh, other wildebeest kept walking in the way, and my hands were shaking, still, they represent one of the most precious moments ever. Soon the calf was walking around, more or less at ease, as his mother paced back and forth, presumably encouraging him to move and strengthen his legs for the trials of life which wait for no man (or beast). He will need lots of strength and a little luck to survive, but God certainly gave him the best opportunity, being born so fully developed, into a herd, with an almost immediate ability to run!</div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tentative legs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A gentle nudge in the right direction</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can (almost) walk!</td></tr>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;">These reasons and many more are why I love summer in the bush. Yes, viewing may be easier in winter, and photography may be better with fewer intruding grasses or leaves, but in the summertime the bush comes alive. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 101.95pt;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impala near Shingwedzi, my new home</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self portrait for those of you that have forgotten what I look like :) </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A coucal with his newly- hatched termite</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-83648268697535546602011-12-16T14:19:00.000+02:002011-12-16T14:19:17.895+02:00The cats come out to play!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzQgWImtxu_cKjI9ipUvJ2qEeInbObs2DCpz-rYRTDbs3hyphenhyphenbwrs47BzREBiToOZ1quKy-2bY_PFlIYiAVVuBBNjrPn93d5thxPbe0OFVuEcz5VFrjsxrMYJlO7ySzoR9TEDZBjNUlLk4/s1600/_MG_2672.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzQgWImtxu_cKjI9ipUvJ2qEeInbObs2DCpz-rYRTDbs3hyphenhyphenbwrs47BzREBiToOZ1quKy-2bY_PFlIYiAVVuBBNjrPn93d5thxPbe0OFVuEcz5VFrjsxrMYJlO7ySzoR9TEDZBjNUlLk4/s400/_MG_2672.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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Yesterday turned in to a bit of a cat festival at Satara. The area is known for its cat sightings, and it just proved to be one of those days where a lion lay around every corner. This is not to say they were exceptional sightings necessarily, just multiple sightings. When I left at 4.30am I was about twelfth in the line, and I couldn’t believe how busy it was! About 200 metres out the gate, a stream of cars flowing past, two lions cubs were sitting right next to the road. I have no idea why people race out so quickly, in the dark, when there is no way they can see what is next to the road but they do, and it’s their loss. The cubs were a bit nervous, understandably when confronted by a fast flowing river of cars, and soon wandered off. On the other side of the road, 50 metres off, lay four lionesses. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chase</td></tr>
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I had decided to sit with them, in the hopes of catching some early morning light on them when they hopefully moved off to collect their cubs. The sun never materialized, although it seemed sure to, but I was very glad I had stayed when a huge herd of waterbuck, at least 30 in total, with multiple young came galloping towards them. Never have I seen such a large mammal disappear into the flat, dry earth so quickly and effectively. I could see two of the lionesses, pressed flat against the earth, ears down, eyes fixed on the target. The other two were invisible. A male waterbuck was chasing a couple of youngsters about, unknowingly running within 10 metres of some hungry lions! They waited until almost the entire herd had trotted on by, so close they must have been able to taste the meat, before they sprung the trap. One youngster was the intended target and they set off at full tilt hot on its heels as it ran for its life. The young one kicked up loads of dust, and the lionesses looked sleek and agile, perfected muscles and designed to kill as their feet pounded the earth, limbs outstretched. By some miracle, the youngster, having been chased across the road in front of me, managed to make a turn seconds before capture, and ran past the front of my car again, four lionesses in hot pursuit. In the end he managed to escape, how is beyond me, for I am sure he must have felt their claws closing in on him as he ran. What an escape, and what a start to the morning, my nerves shattered, and adrenalin surging through my body. I drank my coffee to calm down, by which point the lionesses had finished panting, and walked off into the bushes, empty handed. <br />
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After this excitement, it was another lion sighting, two young males having a snooze, followed by 2 cheetah, and then another four, all on the S100 which I had virtually to myself after the others had rushed off earlier. Then another couple of lions a short while later, before a massive storm struck, soaking the earth, causing streams to run down the roads, and windscreen wipers to move with a vengeance as giant droplets covered everything. There was thunder all around, and I could hardly see where I was going, a scary drive for someone who finds thunder terrifying! I survived though, and when I wound down my window I was greeted with the fresh smell of wet earth, and the chorus of birds, damp but happy after the downpour. <br />
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I ended my morning watching a large number of vultures and a couple of hyenas finishing off a buffalo kill. Most of the vultures sat around, wings outstretched, trying to dry off after the storm. Many gathered in a writhing mass on the carcass, hissing and mewing at each other, nipping feathers and necks with sharp beaks as they fought over the scraps. It was definitely a pleasant morning! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King of the carcass</td></tr>
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The afternoon passed relatively uneventfully except for a few more lions, doing nothing too interesting. I had seen a mating pair the previous evening, and these had joined up with the morning hunters just outside Satara, looking in need of a good meal. <br />
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This morning dawned soggy and wet, the ground soaked from some form of storm last night which I didn’t even hear through my sleep. The lions were again very near to camp, and I watched them under spotlight briefly before they headed off at a rapid pace after something, crossing the road behind me and disappearing. I was driving the S100 again, virtually all alone, when I came upon a chorus of alarm calls, each more agitated than the last, and a few impala running around this way and that. I craned by neck into the river bed to see what was going on, when to my delight I saw a leopard on the bank, not far from me, carrying a young lamb in her mouth. She walked past the vehicle, paused occasionally to readjust the kill, as she walked. In a complete panic of excitement, I didn’t get the shot I would have liked, but what a sighting! And the (second) best way to start a morning! Not for the impala lamb of course, but certainly for the leopard and me. <br />
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After she found her way into a drainage line and became only a smattering of spots, I left her to the queue of eager onlookers hoping to catch a glimpse. I drove on, a big smile on my face, feeling a little frustrated. I am not sure what it was that suddenly filled me with such a sense of wonder, but as I drove, I grinned from ear to ear, appreciating every sound and sight more than I had in a while. Before I knew it, I had one arm out the window, feeling the air as it lifted my hand, imagining being a bird, and what the air must feel like rushing through its feathers. This is not in itself unusual, as I do it fairly often especially if the wind is blowing a lot. What was unusual was that the arm inside the car had now also joined in the fun, flapping away. I looked crazy, I am sure, although there was no one around to tell me so. Then I heard the words “I have magic beans and I can fly” coming out of my mouth as I said them over and over again. I needed sleep. Fortunately I am of the opinion that ‘normal’ people don’t have as much fun as the rest of us, so I’m ok with a little insanity here and there.<br />
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This afternoon I drove south, saw a few lions sleeping on the far side of a dam, and then carried on down some badly corrugated gravel road. Ahead of me I spotted a lioness, and behind her another, with five little faces peering out tentatively from behind her. The cubs must have been around 3 months old, beautiful little faces, although perhaps needing a meal! After a while they began to walk down the road, followed by myself and two other vehicles. The little ones would occasionally pause and watch the cars, before hurrying on after their mother on stumpy legs. When they spotted a tortoise innocently crossing the road ahead, they all ran for it, and had a good sniff and paw at the now terrified fully-retreated-into-his-shell-tortoise, before another car drove up too close to them and frightened them off. <br />
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I had began to hear thunder in the distance, and for those of you who do not know me well, I am scared like a little child of thunder and lighting. I love it, and I find it beautiful to watch, the sky lighting up with fire, but I am scared, and at night it always keeps me awake. As I drove home, over the right hand side stood clouds that resembled what I imagine the Ross Ice Shelf in the Antarctic to look like on a stormy day, a dark blue forboding shelf, broken by a thin shaft of light before another shelf. Off to the side lay the misty fog of pouring rain, a dense grey ‘noise’ to look at. In front of it, an orange light glowed faintly, punctuated by the odd bolt of lightning thrown done to earth. The same to the right hand side, and me, driving along a little nervously, but in awe of the incredible beauty of nature, in the middle. It really has been one of those days where everything seems so perfect, so beautiful, so powerful. I have loved every second of it! Right before camp, with a minute to go until closing time, I encountered Satara rush hour, every car for miles on end trailing slowly behind a pride of lions who seemed hell bent on staying on the road. It made me laugh a bit, all of us cars, three in a row, pushing onward as the lions made their slow and undisturbed way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpz6KW36mJ8WjcrbCv3RXOXXaYd1rrXOyoBGe8u2GRV6g7LLREnKJqspeQ8K9omSlN_7bKQQ-glHVwa9U-P7ItNyYZCxrzv1q-UF4QR7R8DalruKDQlA9CdTNw8YPYl0KtA1GvD-5CtQQ/s1600/_MG_0236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpz6KW36mJ8WjcrbCv3RXOXXaYd1rrXOyoBGe8u2GRV6g7LLREnKJqspeQ8K9omSlN_7bKQQ-glHVwa9U-P7ItNyYZCxrzv1q-UF4QR7R8DalruKDQlA9CdTNw8YPYl0KtA1GvD-5CtQQ/s400/_MG_0236.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of a 300+ herd near Satara</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catching the newly hatched termites as they leave the mound</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5EzJm4ls0WXKCZ9qRYWb5a1WasKLeR1fck_18zWiTjNgWL0NTAbMhX3fcorGxbojtrevZfF25RxwltTLYjs4T0oEzkN5RRlDp5cG7zy9oeOSGdjDO2mGsPDYxJHMYRVy077TcI30004/s1600/_MG_2875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5EzJm4ls0WXKCZ9qRYWb5a1WasKLeR1fck_18zWiTjNgWL0NTAbMhX3fcorGxbojtrevZfF25RxwltTLYjs4T0oEzkN5RRlDp5cG7zy9oeOSGdjDO2mGsPDYxJHMYRVy077TcI30004/s400/_MG_2875.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-66366899038002750922011-12-14T12:00:00.005+02:002011-12-14T12:16:55.211+02:00Dispelling the Pangolin Myth (and other things)<div class="Body1"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rhino calf</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Biyamiti is a wonderful camp, far enough away from the others to allow a measure of private game viewing, and close enough to access either side if the park on a drive. The night sounds here are also much better, as one can sit and listen without the disturbances of people chatting, cars driving about and the general noise which comes with a large group of people occupying a relatively small area. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsDTr315twwIsqiXYodvEHqu5FnsihYp2_Kr4it0bmb_FJIdlWM7beOaF17rVs2iTosHzlL3rjC8961zMx9B9fe3LVO00esyzvdCA8FNVJYkYX2WJFPrwpbFv9SmR06cCyGTmhnYO2xc/s1600/_MG_1548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsDTr315twwIsqiXYodvEHqu5FnsihYp2_Kr4it0bmb_FJIdlWM7beOaF17rVs2iTosHzlL3rjC8961zMx9B9fe3LVO00esyzvdCA8FNVJYkYX2WJFPrwpbFv9SmR06cCyGTmhnYO2xc/s400/_MG_1548.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The smallest giraffe I have ever seen!</td></tr>
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">The first day here, we did a long drive, virtually the full day, in search of some cats to photograph. My dad only had three full days, so we needed to make the most of it! It was also overcast, which made a long drive easily bearable. We did see a couple of sets of lions, but nothing too exciting on that front. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span id="goog_666813203"></span><span id="goog_666813204"></span></span></div><div class="Body1"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK16aGGeEBeCppd89iuAkeg6QSeXcXhxV_JONN5yeQGZzPMrAR4HDlDtF2b7ezAilZ1ZklaU-xgsjDdvrdQ4A6oyMYxo-7dPuybWM_PtHcloCzzlW0hP2BfphTyyi4ts4z0TUcEAtE65M/s1600/_MG_1715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK16aGGeEBeCppd89iuAkeg6QSeXcXhxV_JONN5yeQGZzPMrAR4HDlDtF2b7ezAilZ1ZklaU-xgsjDdvrdQ4A6oyMYxo-7dPuybWM_PtHcloCzzlW0hP2BfphTyyi4ts4z0TUcEAtE65M/s400/_MG_1715.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">Yesterday it dawned mildly overcast and we had decided to get back to the hyena den, as he is also a great fan of hyenas. At first it was quite quiet, a light drizzle possibly encouraging the occupants to stay hidden and dry. All but one who was very fascinated by a millipede which he followed around, pawing at each time it moved. When the rain had stopped, everything suddenly sprang to life, with around 10 pups pouring out of the earth, being joined slowly by around seven adults. The cubs had a bone to play with, and were happily chasing one another around. When one of the adults arrived back, she began to whoop as she went to each hyena and sniffed, bit or chased them about. I can only presume she is the matriarch and was re-affirming her dominance. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">After a couple of hours spent at the den, we popped down to Crocodile Bridge, ordered some coffee and set off up the S28 where we got lucky with 2 cheetah sightings. The one was hunting quite close to the road, his eye on a few very young zebra foals. The whole of the S28 seemed to have turned into the Serengeti overnight, with huge herds of zebra on both sides as we drove. After a delicious chicken burger at Nkhuku, we found a pride of 7 extremely fat lions sleeping off a large meal. They looked extremely uncomfortable, barely able to breathe, let alone move, like fat fish out of water as they lay panting in the heat. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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</span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">That afternoon was spent watching a herd of elephants munching away on some grasses in a dry riverbed. As there were many Egrets in attendance the young ones had their hands full keeping 'the enemy' at bay. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_1XxNj0CgS-TqIsbSPEd1c25yDEUej0vk4BgGoylRZ3lKLYHbPV0FyzKGGOHi97Y6sK0s2VlidTkgrh0Nrtc34ZfDvt43YeGNnUfjyDXFy1w6USnViD7e8igBCwWhSd_5bu9yNM34ac/s1600/_MG_1979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_1XxNj0CgS-TqIsbSPEd1c25yDEUej0vk4BgGoylRZ3lKLYHbPV0FyzKGGOHi97Y6sK0s2VlidTkgrh0Nrtc34ZfDvt43YeGNnUfjyDXFy1w6USnViD7e8igBCwWhSd_5bu9yNM34ac/s400/_MG_1979.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A large python next to the road</td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">This morning we sat for ages at Biyamiti Weir, one of the most beautiful spots in the park, a couple of fish eagles calling periodically, the Lessor Striped Swallows collecting mud and water, and a pair of Black Crake pecking at the mud. Then it was on to a pride of lions lying under exactly the same tree we had seen them almost a year to the day, followed by a beautiful relaxed leopard. The leopard was lying on a large boulder, watching nonchalantly as the cars drove by and the cameras clicked. </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over heating hornbill</td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">Tonight I will enjoy my last night of company until Christmas, and tomorrow, hopefully a special sighting for my dad, to celebrate his birthday!</span><span lang="en-ZA" style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: red;"><b><u>Breaking News:</u></b></span><br />
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I am adding to this post, as before I had the opportunity to post it, my dad got his special birthday sighting, and I just have to share! We were driving along to the hyena den near Lower Sabie, singing the occasional Happy Birthday song for my dad, when all of a sudden in the road ahead stood a strange object. I said 'Whats that?'- already having formed a certain opinion but being too scared to utter the words. My dad said' I am pretty sure thats a Pangolin'... and there it was, a pangolin, the dream sighting for any real bush enthusiast, the mythical creature we had so long joked about seeing, knowing full well they did not actually exist (for all intents and purposes as far as normal people go).<br />
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Pangolins are like dragons or unicorns, which obviously exist, but people have the decency to refer to them as myths. You hear the odd story about the uncle of a friend of a friend who saw one, or the odd picture repeatedly published for lack of a better one. Guide books even include them under mammals, but until you set eyes on them yourself, it is unlikely you will believe they exist. They are like the gold at the end of the rainbow or finding a leprechaun.<br />
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He was relatively relaxed, shy, but not scared, although he only liked to show us the back end, and not his peculiar little face. It was surreal, and I have no idea how long we watched him, as time seemed to speed up into a blur of excitement, gasps and disbelief. A real, live pangolin. A real live wish come true. In retrospect, I wish I could rewind that moment, jump out of the car and chase after the little guy, or at least just relive the feeling. It left both of us on a complete high, full of disbelief, and even as I write this, I am not sure it has fully sunk in yet. An actual pangolin, the stuff dreams are made of!<br />
Happy Birthday Dad! That's a present you will never forget!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-QbC2eP5uuNpeLIltOYOdu037RjEcWFlZGCtqo7vvJ1PhQd0TtRd2gh4KmVuYzL6rh3d-AzJqVdEl0fKvfxppN2eB5BbgUhCvj6mMZL_C6aZJYiPP7lSZHBlslu7yaF3UfHRPessHK0/s1600/_MG_2540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-QbC2eP5uuNpeLIltOYOdu037RjEcWFlZGCtqo7vvJ1PhQd0TtRd2gh4KmVuYzL6rh3d-AzJqVdEl0fKvfxppN2eB5BbgUhCvj6mMZL_C6aZJYiPP7lSZHBlslu7yaF3UfHRPessHK0/s400/_MG_2540.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The quality of the pictures above are such that they can be believed to be real, for if I had conjured them up from the realms of photoshop, I can assure you they would have been better! As such, the average photo's I present lend an air of authenticity to my tale. Believe in them, they do exist!!!</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-78441730541562481062011-12-09T12:13:00.003+02:002011-12-09T13:06:58.092+02:00I lost my heart to a hyena: Kruger part 6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshBhV7keFavOUgA6OkKysJmvpALNg1zIuYEfuqTjh883-rukkI8Ltg1BPW1lDMT9fj8_Yi6da3eMMS-eOR22zYAMiQDAeWTlIiBYKTKnpTmnO-FVmz0U5n26xDa5g67sYlQ-2ngE0rKw/s1600/_MG_1039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshBhV7keFavOUgA6OkKysJmvpALNg1zIuYEfuqTjh883-rukkI8Ltg1BPW1lDMT9fj8_Yi6da3eMMS-eOR22zYAMiQDAeWTlIiBYKTKnpTmnO-FVmz0U5n26xDa5g67sYlQ-2ngE0rKw/s640/_MG_1039.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">As part of my blog today I thought I would mention a bit about why Kruger is so special to me. Four years ago, almost exactly, I came here for the first time independently with Dan and Romy, two of my best friends. We had 13 days in the park, and 3 days in the Sabie Sands with my dad, brother and his girlfriend for my dad's birthday. I got given, as a Christmas present an H9 camera, which is a Sony Advanced Digital Camera, with a 15 times zoom. I got the gift early, so that I could capture my memories in Kruger for the first time. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">We had an incredible trip, with 9 leopards in the park, and 4 in the Sands. We also saw incredible sightings of Wild Dogs, mating lions and virtually everything I had hoped for, even a Rock Python squeezing an impala to death, and swallowing it slowly. I took home a wonderful collection of memories, and photo's I thought were pretty great. I then posted my first ever shot on Outdoorphoto, a great website for anyone wanting to learn about photography, and get crit on images. While browsing the site, I began to fall in love with the photos and the community as a whole, and 6 months later decided to buy my first SLR for a trip to the Kalahari. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adorable Rhino calf yawning after a nap</td></tr>
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">Between those two trips, the sightings we had and the joy of capturing an image, I was hooked, and wildlife became my absolute passion, above all else. Photography became the other, and I slowly improved, getting more hooked with each click of the shutter. It's too late for me now, nothing in my life will ever be the same, and I am so happy about that. My whole world has been changed completely, and I will never look back! There is no greater joy than looking through the lens, at a beautiful leopard as it moves silently through the grass, or a baby impala, as it springs about of stick-like legs. Even a bird, each one so beautiful and unique, their colours transformed by magical light into poetry in motion. So I have a lot to be grateful to the Kruger Park for!</span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very proud bird with a rather little fish!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crocodile tail</td></tr>
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">I have had some good sightings the past two days, I have seen 4 leopards, 2 which were a very shy mating pair, who I could only hear as they did the deed in the river bed. The third was a male with a kill not far from Sunset Dam, but he couldn't access his tree'd kill as the tree was surrounded by hyenas, so he was sulking underneath a nearby bush. The fourth was hunting a herd of impala. The leopard must have been within 50 meters of them, moving at a painstakingly slow pace toward them in the baking sun. It is quite something to watch the patience of a cat, each step deliberate and calculated. Over about 2 hours the leopard barely moved 5 meters, often slinking low into the grass, or doing a very slow leopard crawl. In the end, there was no kill, and although I felt like I had been baked in an oven afterwards, it was exciting to watch. </span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rhino bums</td></tr>
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">I have had a few lion sightings, one even produced a short buffalo chase, but it was quite far off. The birds have been active, with many a woodland Kingfisher calling as he flits from tree to tree. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charging into the water in the midday heat!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Males sparring</td></tr>
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">Yesterday I moved to Berg-en-Dal, just for a night, as my dad is arriving today for a short stay over his birthday. I therefore spent my last proper morning with the hyenas at the den, and felt like I was leaving some friends behind! They were in fine form, with a new and very interesting bone to play with, which caused absolute havoc amongst the cubs. It is great to see the signs of aggression and dominance that they display even at such a young age. Tails would be raised, and low calls or excited giggles let out as they chased and bit one another for the prize. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The adorable 'Teenager' having a nap</td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">The hyena I refer to as 'Teenager' because he or she is taller and far lankier than all the others, with legs that seem not quite to fit the body, won the prize quite frequently. I presume it is a she, as she behaved quite dominantly when she joined in the games. Each time she got the bone, she would come racing up to the car and put it down a meter from me before trying to chew it. It was quite sweet, and I felt slightly included in the game... </span><br />
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">One of the other pups decided that he wanted a bit of my beanbag, as the one strap was dangling down, and raised himself onto his hind legs to grab it. He nearly earned himself a pat on the head for being so cute, although I thought better of this. At one point, an adult arrived covered in blood, and was licked by nearly every cub, I presume due to some excitement over the smell. One cub looked rather silly, with his face covered in green stomach contents, and was very smelly. In fact, the whole den site smelt quite a bit more, and I imagine that a carcass had possibly been dragged there in fact the previous night. I have spent so much time at this den, which has been such a highlight in the trip! </span><br />
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</div><div class="Body1"><span lang="EN-US">I slept extremely soundly last night, my last night alone for four whole days... So looking forward to my first ever stay at Biyamiti! I will update if possible, depending on Internet availability... For now, it's off to the airport I go! </span></div><div class="Body1"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Bedrooms'</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-64295255671112197942011-12-06T20:42:00.001+02:002011-12-09T10:48:25.807+02:00Kruger : The sun comes out!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow Billed Stork at sunset</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">Another couple of days in this beautiful park have come to an end, and sometimes it feel as though 6 weeks will be far too short. Other times I get so lonely as I drive, that I think perhaps I was crazy and it’s far too long. The gate opens at 4.30am, so when I wake at 4, I always wonder if I should even get out of bed. But then I think of my cameras, and how all they need is me to hold them, and suddenly I am wide-awake and as excited as can be. 4 am is quite an early start to keep up, but there’s nothing better than driving out of that gate, coffee in hand, and every morning that feeling gets me up and out of bed. <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Yesterday started with lovely clear skies, and all I wanted to do was get straight down to the hyena den. A few wrong turns, and I realized I wasn’t going to make it. By the time I did get there, there was only one adult sleeping off to the side. Later that morning I again got lost, and had to back-track a lot. I don’t know what it is with girls (maybe not all, but many) but we have some serious problems with distance, directions and maps!! I then decided that I would no longer take a turning without first checking my guide book, as I only got to a place for ‘breakfast’ at 2pm! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant Drinking at Biyamiti Weir</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I did find some great kingfishers, in particular a pair of Giant Kingfishers, one of which I watched catch and eat a crab. As she swallowed it, she had to pause in a very uncomfortable position, as though waiting for it to squeeze through a narrow gap, before again relaxing. She did first smash it on some rocks, which broke most of the legs off, and after the body was finished, she picked up the remnants before diving back into the water for a cleaning dip. The different between a male and female giant, is that a male wears a ‘t-shirt’ and the female wears a ‘g-string’, both of these clothing items being chestnut in colour. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male, watching a pair of Fish eagles.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkIjS4UN2z-0lKmZ4tGaqT0C3eZOtYS8PizF7vKzWDit8WU7SJqHjKMPOcMZOacL4W9ZVrrJGNrzRCk5fMa57xDfp2PpcB5-GpUlJgcdk6Pa7txIGZ4nGR6M3ApHB8EtajWRwlNbfz8o/s1600/Kingfisher+and+crab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkIjS4UN2z-0lKmZ4tGaqT0C3eZOtYS8PizF7vKzWDit8WU7SJqHjKMPOcMZOacL4W9ZVrrJGNrzRCk5fMa57xDfp2PpcB5-GpUlJgcdk6Pa7txIGZ4nGR6M3ApHB8EtajWRwlNbfz8o/s400/Kingfisher+and+crab.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female Giant Kingfisher and crab</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnGJMmXvYsmaw6ukWKkuG6Kcfpj5Q-j5E2OmyqnVyYmls94BnU-N_AAYGtVYaUzwweKADOmZHdg4I45WeQnfZ47pIME0qNBf-F0qZzuRUXPOnFwvZij-gtzcuvHFMuR7hF1xWowMixD1A/s1600/Kingfisher+Giant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnGJMmXvYsmaw6ukWKkuG6Kcfpj5Q-j5E2OmyqnVyYmls94BnU-N_AAYGtVYaUzwweKADOmZHdg4I45WeQnfZ47pIME0qNBf-F0qZzuRUXPOnFwvZij-gtzcuvHFMuR7hF1xWowMixD1A/s400/Kingfisher+Giant.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbuWhiHDPNJ0oDIFFuoTe7EHT8uZU_aIJEFaytYNLk9QN0VBUueHNLbgZ95lJ8EQWTTlnefSk6Cp_eMRwecC8ZAN8Hi7yc72MDZ3B1JuMapW1cvJ0cQBBL-M7JLW3L-kxhhJtB_88Pp8/s1600/ion+eye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbuWhiHDPNJ0oDIFFuoTe7EHT8uZU_aIJEFaytYNLk9QN0VBUueHNLbgZ95lJ8EQWTTlnefSk6Cp_eMRwecC8ZAN8Hi7yc72MDZ3B1JuMapW1cvJ0cQBBL-M7JLW3L-kxhhJtB_88Pp8/s400/ion+eye.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeping Lioness</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I also had 2 lion sightings, one a pride of seven, who were resting right next to the road, and the other two very fat females who were sleeping off a large meal. Another highlight of the day was a pretty relaxed black rhino. I also saw another at a waterhole a few days ago, and as I know how elusive they are in Kruger, feel very privileged to have seen two of them! (Black Rhino is a Kruger first for me…)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI7OEJm21LU5T_e8Sz2kot8AuCRzo1jXkrXmaF_fnfbHGjFrAoCfrrjjzsjegDFGCiKLV4K_FC1JpEaX7gDvIoAuSGDfNT2K5nM0mEU1CWtkA4h_p8DcDwAmiyBrfAUXdpSZEZaLKbbI/s1600/_DSC8942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI7OEJm21LU5T_e8Sz2kot8AuCRzo1jXkrXmaF_fnfbHGjFrAoCfrrjjzsjegDFGCiKLV4K_FC1JpEaX7gDvIoAuSGDfNT2K5nM0mEU1CWtkA4h_p8DcDwAmiyBrfAUXdpSZEZaLKbbI/s400/_DSC8942.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6bmEJOdxUn51PqiOqQiLHiBcEzHlxfKT9scGmsSn3EJ2ot4fi2mDqc5AX_CPD0ZsKx9qXSricLbnu5s4tVvQZYLHB2DhXk8xUFRvqSuZHabVSqCE6ayLqJiKoD7l1xmg-VxkrGvN19E/s1600/Tree+squrrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6bmEJOdxUn51PqiOqQiLHiBcEzHlxfKT9scGmsSn3EJ2ot4fi2mDqc5AX_CPD0ZsKx9qXSricLbnu5s4tVvQZYLHB2DhXk8xUFRvqSuZHabVSqCE6ayLqJiKoD7l1xmg-VxkrGvN19E/s400/Tree+squrrel.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree Squirrel</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhQUUpoYZ9xEAot2QPodXdwumxO9bqfsdjGQekxLw4fwL5qBZO8z5TVKenGUJG55e61W7rEowjEKZBV0u2KSdEbFXP9XTt37PA-CoYhkHTsh9_q9_uJ6uiXOvyvRCpP4JI6YvI1nUcuE/s1600/lephant+trunk+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhQUUpoYZ9xEAot2QPodXdwumxO9bqfsdjGQekxLw4fwL5qBZO8z5TVKenGUJG55e61W7rEowjEKZBV0u2KSdEbFXP9XTt37PA-CoYhkHTsh9_q9_uJ6uiXOvyvRCpP4JI6YvI1nUcuE/s400/lephant+trunk+2.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant Trunk</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcWBbkqwieHVPx9IwcaMoAe6ouV6iq6ONcdHTiUrvQrW1qQkn7YHb1jWpN22FZvnlA2XdlkpV4GiF459-fL511EntRQvDG6bupFH8so7qqSJwBFhfGWxLtJuCaJ6CgX_U2w0eGAv4Pmg/s1600/Woodlands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcWBbkqwieHVPx9IwcaMoAe6ouV6iq6ONcdHTiUrvQrW1qQkn7YHb1jWpN22FZvnlA2XdlkpV4GiF459-fL511EntRQvDG6bupFH8so7qqSJwBFhfGWxLtJuCaJ6CgX_U2w0eGAv4Pmg/s400/Woodlands.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Displaying Woodlands Kingfisher</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This morning I planned my route very carefully so that there were no mistakes on the way to the hyena den. When I arrived, at least 14 individuals were in attendance, with the cubs all eagerly suckling, and the adults fairly relaxed. One had brought an animal's backbone home, which caused quite a bit of excitement, as did a stray warthog who spent some time chasing a couple of far-too-curious youngsters. Once everyone had settled down, and I had rescued my car from some over curious mouths, I decided to drive on and see what the rest of the morning had on offer. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZPb7h8nocXgB2Yp_2MdlmrAOAcXOoS8i7gl5lAOIboYSQ7AoTr-Q-nAUBbA7eewCd6cruUzi4vHttoil0lXG_wAaVX7jHmXK4tyyf9MhnwN2LBT_TFIhCUpbdX5eNTzbTnQ0PBXxaIQ/s1600/_DSC9055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZPb7h8nocXgB2Yp_2MdlmrAOAcXOoS8i7gl5lAOIboYSQ7AoTr-Q-nAUBbA7eewCd6cruUzi4vHttoil0lXG_wAaVX7jHmXK4tyyf9MhnwN2LBT_TFIhCUpbdX5eNTzbTnQ0PBXxaIQ/s400/_DSC9055.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2psOH4cxAra0I3QzRS9leYzZezTYXhn7MPa7o9G-QQoqeviNqK6b4ZMW_jzOqsvW4U3scLWIiBD_EmKGlHRkAD32VqjoqoFS8dzoTDE8nOGqxB3kTe_A2tHn7w5RoRA19jw8I_CcBZVY/s1600/_DSC9069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2psOH4cxAra0I3QzRS9leYzZezTYXhn7MPa7o9G-QQoqeviNqK6b4ZMW_jzOqsvW4U3scLWIiBD_EmKGlHRkAD32VqjoqoFS8dzoTDE8nOGqxB3kTe_A2tHn7w5RoRA19jw8I_CcBZVY/s400/_DSC9069.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-G4DtYwMtXtN2FxzOtTwqgR50s2LfeDOrmR0j7zfJawT-7b7bf6EDGix4oyZJUUfcVu_lmuvWFsg2oJVt6w0a3FEZUfxvqAGTkwsORRQrNMilOGL3hH6mA9PgovNdVSpDLpJfJsVItww/s1600/Hyena+wathog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-G4DtYwMtXtN2FxzOtTwqgR50s2LfeDOrmR0j7zfJawT-7b7bf6EDGix4oyZJUUfcVu_lmuvWFsg2oJVt6w0a3FEZUfxvqAGTkwsORRQrNMilOGL3hH6mA9PgovNdVSpDLpJfJsVItww/s400/Hyena+wathog.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBb9w6uzNN3xGAl3xxqRgZgNsjvs81QXkN8FHrPjoeoewISsaglnmxSfRETTN_ym6LNA3yfvcLrnqJkT9y2XCbRG9-4MdZ0MLIPIC5Zg3sUWExd6ubme18FAkloL5rIERUkS_w3lCmMtU/s1600/Hyena+at+den.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBb9w6uzNN3xGAl3xxqRgZgNsjvs81QXkN8FHrPjoeoewISsaglnmxSfRETTN_ym6LNA3yfvcLrnqJkT9y2XCbRG9-4MdZ0MLIPIC5Zg3sUWExd6ubme18FAkloL5rIERUkS_w3lCmMtU/s400/Hyena+at+den.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLQNaF54GSTBtEFKq5nYnbyLDxywHgadA4YICR9Jn3ELIXghFsE_mlC_rqmwhiAUpWM8bvfXnjzzdzGprbifyyIr3MKEWE9QjXOQkHo2w9shyphenhyphenrJJcCi7TsbBItYxg54W90kp6QleUX3xk/s1600/_MG_0039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLQNaF54GSTBtEFKq5nYnbyLDxywHgadA4YICR9Jn3ELIXghFsE_mlC_rqmwhiAUpWM8bvfXnjzzdzGprbifyyIr3MKEWE9QjXOQkHo2w9shyphenhyphenrJJcCi7TsbBItYxg54W90kp6QleUX3xk/s400/_MG_0039.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I had a pleasant surprise in the form of two leopards, walking in the bushes along side the main road outside Lower Sabie, presumably the mother and subadult from the kill a few nights ago. Driving a vehicle when thronged by a crowd of curious vehicles, and photographing at the same time is virtually impossible, so I eventually left. Sometimes, even a leopard sighting is a bit too difficult to manage when it's on a busy road like that. I couldn’t get ‘through’ the crowd of cars, so decided to end my drive and finally get round to some laundry! Laundry is boring, waiting for things to wash and dry is a real waste of time. It was also really hot! I had quite a long afternoon drive, although other than some very relaxed elephant herds, nothing too much occurred! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Q-PfsFv-hWWarp-IWZFiwwzHKzUoeI_aV-o-50n1Lv5473tj224uXdj_8McgiT34yXhVlj_B-beJZwjdLwaFUp7ZT7LYexMj2qxXVMbQH_Dymuu5e7fvMOG9w5YF_AHtq-5s7pQpg88/s1600/_DSC9186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Q-PfsFv-hWWarp-IWZFiwwzHKzUoeI_aV-o-50n1Lv5473tj224uXdj_8McgiT34yXhVlj_B-beJZwjdLwaFUp7ZT7LYexMj2qxXVMbQH_Dymuu5e7fvMOG9w5YF_AHtq-5s7pQpg88/s400/_DSC9186.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxPeVnGfItNELYtiO2hh-WPyRWUWtjGVjLFQTiqBD7snmCQ7jzDzkswR7v7paqHaCh91_F_DFs6hmAWGizClHJnn_mHCAMcHDm-QkTQygiieVMNgGlWJSUlsJc7guDpFKIeYBJqQsqbk/s1600/Elephant+trunk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoxPeVnGfItNELYtiO2hh-WPyRWUWtjGVjLFQTiqBD7snmCQ7jzDzkswR7v7paqHaCh91_F_DFs6hmAWGizClHJnn_mHCAMcHDm-QkTQygiieVMNgGlWJSUlsJc7guDpFKIeYBJqQsqbk/s400/Elephant+trunk.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhctRc6HTkxK5lrmF8hixDsP2EEcBoa18a7m5Q5eIIUosU9Ovd-wraHzw8LvhWlEwCRNS8JFrkvfBWtjyLgFdxIiEy7QGNfUrzUBPhYfRjlvdOt6WLVAPLYC5cAsq4QQRTUFS3Ez9P7Rzw/s1600/Zebra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhctRc6HTkxK5lrmF8hixDsP2EEcBoa18a7m5Q5eIIUosU9Ovd-wraHzw8LvhWlEwCRNS8JFrkvfBWtjyLgFdxIiEy7QGNfUrzUBPhYfRjlvdOt6WLVAPLYC5cAsq4QQRTUFS3Ez9P7Rzw/s400/Zebra.jpg" width="290" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Tonight I’ll be eating noodles again: The problem is that while I love cooking, there is no joy in cooking for one, or eating alone, so I much prefer to spend my time in other ways. I only eat because I’m scared that if I don’t, I will pass out and there will be no one to wake me!! That said, there is something magical about sitting listening to the happy chatter of people all around, smelling braai as its scent wafts through the air, the odd hyena ‘whoop’ punctuating the night. It's moments like these that remind me how lucky I am to be where I am.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVlwO5CtqSU5MbOIrqnVG_cUfvzSzJzNtHZWl7SRWXciUsYHnCdB_wAxcZBVArVJfW9DEwp5o-iuA6pug22xZ1vMIbLdk81dUBPXdBM2-eTccuQEF4ha4VTOEAYwSPiwJXYFXYk_ae3uY/s1600/_MG_0972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVlwO5CtqSU5MbOIrqnVG_cUfvzSzJzNtHZWl7SRWXciUsYHnCdB_wAxcZBVArVJfW9DEwp5o-iuA6pug22xZ1vMIbLdk81dUBPXdBM2-eTccuQEF4ha4VTOEAYwSPiwJXYFXYk_ae3uY/s400/_MG_0972.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self Portrait while stuck in leopard sighting!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzZwWuS9H_M8d9oNFMt-Az5pIqtLMYC0iR6f01aU9wVO6jqXEIuEuV3ON31TwOIF598UYr3sXXLbGdg8iKnqDls3BRn3Hy6rkB_mpwET8KuiMvgwVEX0yZDXEwuQ9prRjVWK2PQtsntA/s1600/Rhino.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGzZwWuS9H_M8d9oNFMt-Az5pIqtLMYC0iR6f01aU9wVO6jqXEIuEuV3ON31TwOIF598UYr3sXXLbGdg8iKnqDls3BRn3Hy6rkB_mpwET8KuiMvgwVEX0yZDXEwuQ9prRjVWK2PQtsntA/s400/Rhino.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
</div></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-71474104773040275932011-12-04T20:45:00.000+02:002011-12-04T20:45:50.681+02:00Kruger: Rainy days are for relaxing<div class="MsoNormal"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4y5cM4q3mwDXeGcLYcPsHRCbw5rG0rHOrN6VxatW5p7GbtED0N3DTfW2A3vFUc4lxF9glWGkbdAvBHGOqv9XfcCy0t6mbJzEmlpiv2nPb-z8nvfFw1Sz1q9S9KYzeQ_7iK-_3iRTJBgs/s1600/_DSC8926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4y5cM4q3mwDXeGcLYcPsHRCbw5rG0rHOrN6VxatW5p7GbtED0N3DTfW2A3vFUc4lxF9glWGkbdAvBHGOqv9XfcCy0t6mbJzEmlpiv2nPb-z8nvfFw1Sz1q9S9KYzeQ_7iK-_3iRTJBgs/s400/_DSC8926.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coucal</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Hello again! Starting to feel a little like I need someone to talk to in the car, and have found myself singing A LOT to fill the silence. It’s not all bad as it allows me to practice my Afrikaans and French, my two preferred languages of song. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Yesterday, I started off my day with a giant kingfisher which caught and killed a fish over the low water bridge outside Lower Sabie. This is itself, not that impressive, but it was almost completely dark, around half an hour before sunrise, with lots of cloud cover, so how he managed to see the fish is beyond me! I could barely see him as he sat next to Bart, shaking his head and smashing the fish against the concrete. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Next up, I paid a visit to the hyena den, as it looked as though the sun might make a break through the clouds. It did very briefly, but either way, sitting watching the clan was delightful. There were at least 20 members present yesterday, of varying ages and conditions of scruffiness. One female appeared to have been bitten quite badly by a lion, judging from the size of the puncture wounds, although she could walk fine. The others kept on trying to lick the wound, and hellish moaning would break out, followed by some biting before a respite. <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The rest of the morning passed relatively uneventfully, with just one far off lion sighting, but as I wasn’t really tired I decided to only pop back to camp for a bite to eat. I then went and sat at sunset dam, just in case. I got lucky in the form of a couple of Giant Kingfishers on the bank, and a Pied kingfisher, although the light was terribly dull! I also saw my first Diedericks Cukoo. And I now know why I have never spotted this bird before: I have been looking for something around 4 times larger… the smile on my face was ridiculous, and I caught some people staring at me, and I’m sure they had a good laugh after I turned my back.<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"> The afternoon it seemed as though perhaps the long awaited rain would arrive. The wind was blowing a gale, and before long the first droplets began to land on the parched earth. I don’t know why this side of the park is so dry, but there is no water in any of the usual places! I found cheetah 6,7 and 8 all huddling together in some long grass, and although I sat with them nearly an hour, nothing materialized, so I moved off. Next up was a pair of lion, who did nothing much but try and hide from the rain. With that I made my way back to camp, in time to get thoroughly drenched on the way to the kitchen. There is something wonderful about being drenched by huge well needed raindrops, and I barely even ran to escape them. The evening smelt wonderful, full of life and wet ground, and I went to sleep at 8.15pm, smiling. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pair of Woodlands in todays dull, grey light</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">This morning it was still heavily overcast when I set out, upwards toward Tshokwane. I didn’t see much on the way there or back, so it was quite quiet for me. The area is beautiful though, and I enjoyed the landscapes and the drive, and watching the woodlands flitting about. A few had a big fight, too far off to photograph, so I watched through the binoculars. On the way back, I spent about an hour with three Ground Hornbill who were busy foraging along the road. I got so absorbed in what I was doing I barely noticed the other cars that joined me at one stage, who were trying to get my attention to find out if I had seen lions. I wondered to myself if they knew these beautiful birds were endangered? It was another bad day for frogs, as the one hornbill found a fat, bloated little fellow, and carried him around for a while before flicking him up into the air, and down the hatch. I also took my first shots of a lion! They are average to say the least, so I will wait for better ones before I share them… I am sure you all know what a lioness walking away into some bushes looks like…<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final Push</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETtAaMC5X0sMSlYCwErzHIm8Momu1y4h1HsdRu9CbPEVRF3YqD8mpWkXNeZYPw3WovXVhc_m7Mkxgxn2rcZ3W1WQDMw8P_f8Q5I1_h5Nx4cd6uZoQgtcu3D5w5jnQ8a27ezuvWqwvt78/s1600/_MG_9272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETtAaMC5X0sMSlYCwErzHIm8Momu1y4h1HsdRu9CbPEVRF3YqD8mpWkXNeZYPw3WovXVhc_m7Mkxgxn2rcZ3W1WQDMw8P_f8Q5I1_h5Nx4cd6uZoQgtcu3D5w5jnQ8a27ezuvWqwvt78/s400/_MG_9272.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Down the hatch he goes...</td></tr>
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I have also been informed by Trevor Hardaker (Who I would term a 'professional birder') that the vulture I previously posted which I had assumed was a juvenile Lappet- Faced, is in fact a partially leucistic one. This is apparently very rare in the species, so below I have included another shot of it, shown with the 'normal' Lappet- faced.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JQePehyphenhyphenaHt_qYatS8x6PazWNb9xXdITeoruyIspr-9ST8uioxINp1Al-PPU0ODISUOlhyMC0fqy2Z8x36VQWF2To7MROYfRH2uB3tZtXPxfZl84KcIgQTwsLyMIMTDnFNfTdWhVhwgE/s1600/_MG_8885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JQePehyphenhyphenaHt_qYatS8x6PazWNb9xXdITeoruyIspr-9ST8uioxINp1Al-PPU0ODISUOlhyMC0fqy2Z8x36VQWF2To7MROYfRH2uB3tZtXPxfZl84KcIgQTwsLyMIMTDnFNfTdWhVhwgE/s400/_MG_8885.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-55226158936327138682011-12-02T22:03:00.000+02:002011-12-02T22:03:47.449+02:00Kruger: Pretoriuskop to Lower Sabie<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBRhe-Ica7J5XuCtG2cFLNvX_05_42zUnj-dQXiYYc8H0Ul3H9hPtGz7RbA3C63liXlKd9u7ji-1Lv2NzLURGmA8xTiLFlvZXdGStQuwlawjcgvflJcR-UnKRzpjnTNTiih-GwoiCAEw/s1600/Bee+eater+and+kill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBRhe-Ica7J5XuCtG2cFLNvX_05_42zUnj-dQXiYYc8H0Ul3H9hPtGz7RbA3C63liXlKd9u7ji-1Lv2NzLURGmA8xTiLFlvZXdGStQuwlawjcgvflJcR-UnKRzpjnTNTiih-GwoiCAEw/s400/Bee+eater+and+kill.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">When I look through my photos from the past two days, it appears I have far more to talk about than I had thought. That must be a good sign, or a sign of old age. I will take it to be good. The weather has been cloudy, and the cats sightings have been difficult, and I have yet to see cheetah number 6! Yesterday was moving day and I packed the car at 3.40 am because I was too tired the night before. It was scary! The whole camp was deadly quiet, but for the sounds of my huffing and puffing as I tried to manouevre ammo boxes and camera equipment into position for the trip. The only light was the flicker of my torch as I scanned the fence a few metres away from my car. The odd woodlands kingfisher and nightjar called out occasionally to let me know I was not completely alone… When it was done, I drove up to the gate, coffee in hand, just in time for it to open at 4.30 am. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big eyes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXMJhCim6RFrmw3FC5diPYnp_0CzglaZxp1opGUA92kYC6FCXBVurhenSp9IPI2RTwiBbVlbkweNV6Ae-W1PvbeA1suj0NLGLCPVStNdV5rmaneedBbXi9Q33rFK-uIm-4EjInmo4nm8/s1600/hyena+cubs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXMJhCim6RFrmw3FC5diPYnp_0CzglaZxp1opGUA92kYC6FCXBVurhenSp9IPI2RTwiBbVlbkweNV6Ae-W1PvbeA1suj0NLGLCPVStNdV5rmaneedBbXi9Q33rFK-uIm-4EjInmo4nm8/s400/hyena+cubs.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cub standing on Mom!</td></tr>
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</div></div><div class="MsoNormal">I went directly to the hyena den, and again spent a wonderful couple of hours with the pups. This time a few adults were in attendance, and they completed many of their bizarre greeting rituals. The cubs were completely relaxed in my presence, much more so than the previous day, and I could park not far from them, and reposition the car without them running into the den. The same could not be said for some of the others who passed by, but they soon left the pups and I to our business. I have named them Max and Milly (seems strange to name them, but I’m alone, so I can do what I like!) Milly is named after Dr Gus Mills who wrote a fascinating book called ‘Kalahari days, hyena nights’. It is a great read, in particular if you have an interest in what goes on behind the scenes in a hyenas life. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6buo04UhVFNNpQ3M5U5oS0BPUWjAFE1t9qXxXIBnz2aMLY5kdFQglCiVxZUS1hquXlD4h8rmOiFWgyOkRR3CqnRJEy6BSGaDdifen75sp9RG0jWwBRKcABVq0MYVnn4VvbZPcoS6tac/s1600/dragonfly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6buo04UhVFNNpQ3M5U5oS0BPUWjAFE1t9qXxXIBnz2aMLY5kdFQglCiVxZUS1hquXlD4h8rmOiFWgyOkRR3CqnRJEy6BSGaDdifen75sp9RG0jWwBRKcABVq0MYVnn4VvbZPcoS6tac/s400/dragonfly.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dragonfly at Biyamiti</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The rest of the morning passed relatively uneventfully, until I was nearing Lower Sabie. I saw a flash of blue off to the side of my car, and what looked like 2 birds and a frog… ‘That’s not right’ I thought. I stopped, reversed and to my great surprise there sat a pair of Woodlands Kingfishers and their kill. The one was nervous, and flew into the tree behind, but the other was either braver, or unable to fly due to the size of his prize! I had never seen this before, that’s for sure, and I had been struggling to get photo of a Woodlands KF, let alone one with a frog dangling limply, little hands outstretched, from its beak. I spent quite a long while watching as this bird tried to decide what on earth to do with the giant creature it had a grasp on. Every car which stopped drove on past me, disappointed that my lens wasn’t pointing at a leopard, but I was overjoyed with this little gem of a sighting. Eventually the bird managed to fit the frog's head in its mouth, and began bashing the legs against the branch, before flying off proudly with 2 hind legs trailing below him reaching for the earth. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PJo7BOffK7_iAGKB8ytTmtlxarCGwUxV4aSvvcKN58FBCkSXbB4Vdv_fkuWGJCzMx9E9gy5KQ-ul922pdkyxVZsav1FSV2Evc77HrAwhbobkkQwJfqoHBty7NBj23TbXAueySBASx7c/s1600/Woodlands+Kingfisher+kill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PJo7BOffK7_iAGKB8ytTmtlxarCGwUxV4aSvvcKN58FBCkSXbB4Vdv_fkuWGJCzMx9E9gy5KQ-ul922pdkyxVZsav1FSV2Evc77HrAwhbobkkQwJfqoHBty7NBj23TbXAueySBASx7c/s400/Woodlands+Kingfisher+kill.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">That afternoon, I spotted a leopard on a back road near Lower Sabie, my current place of residence. In a flash it melted away into the grass, and try as I might, I could not relocate him. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFjbni30gt280Kat2QkzTTeNA9eLLxjXdraRzVNbzGPibwAjV_RdC_FRYXSDzKAeM7Ln_MGCWRI44HG_NFrp8QZxICGAR6ejwCMItcI37yVCEdIYnGXY25rO8q3o4zNay6QXoTj1DVBQ/s1600/Byffalo+wallow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFjbni30gt280Kat2QkzTTeNA9eLLxjXdraRzVNbzGPibwAjV_RdC_FRYXSDzKAeM7Ln_MGCWRI44HG_NFrp8QZxICGAR6ejwCMItcI37yVCEdIYnGXY25rO8q3o4zNay6QXoTj1DVBQ/s400/Byffalo+wallow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buffalo wallow- one in a herd of around 300 near Lower Sabie</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianG7ilgEA8ofYzWSfF6qNFltBTnWLK4Xfd4PEJxEQWIjPwVoei59YVYLCdr1VqBCFXd3IrLRUPk5ljSPwzanlgjVJRSmnaFsZC3naCes8IwJ4Sbu9gkVxs_IkhgBvGTPxjYYMCRD-wrY/s1600/vultures.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianG7ilgEA8ofYzWSfF6qNFltBTnWLK4Xfd4PEJxEQWIjPwVoei59YVYLCdr1VqBCFXd3IrLRUPk5ljSPwzanlgjVJRSmnaFsZC3naCes8IwJ4Sbu9gkVxs_IkhgBvGTPxjYYMCRD-wrY/s400/vultures.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vultures sharing an impala lamb</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">This morning I went driving in search of ‘My Special Place’. I have two of these, one being Biyamiti Weir, and another a concrete lower level bridge over a small river quite far south. This time the river was empty, but for a small puddle of water. The whole area is quite dry, which I was at first disappointed about. What I did find at the special place was a few bee-eaters who were catching the butterflies and bees and landing on a well-positioned perch, which usually houses a kingfisher or two. While watching them a giraffe came down to drink, and he had a tough time of it, trying to get his head low enough to reach the puddle. The ‘puddle’ is actually inside a small rocky hole, so he really had to work for it. Lining his neck, there must have 20 or so Red Billed Oxpeckers, having a good time cleaning him of ticks. We sat there, Bart, myself, and the bee eaters, all watching the spectacle of the giraffe as I drank nearly a whole flask of coffee. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeEAYqEV7yY5xKEirMcVw8kMd56vKdJVyiGiL1RS8nYpbNnLi_a5PWP0fa7bYbcSXlahJF6dGAkew0vFN_Ftt1n2BTHm5ZUzBLHRWL4ppSRKHP7AJwlOUClNA2Xg2qbSgyLvTyjypg4dg/s1600/bee+eater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeEAYqEV7yY5xKEirMcVw8kMd56vKdJVyiGiL1RS8nYpbNnLi_a5PWP0fa7bYbcSXlahJF6dGAkew0vFN_Ftt1n2BTHm5ZUzBLHRWL4ppSRKHP7AJwlOUClNA2Xg2qbSgyLvTyjypg4dg/s400/bee+eater.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">On the way toward the special place I again found myself a hyena den close to the road, and this den had multiple young and adults in attendance. More adults arrived, and this again provided some interesting interaction. Hyena live in a matriarchal society, where even the lowest ranking female including cubs will rank higher than any male in the clan. The alpha female's cub also generally becomes the new ‘Clan Queen’ when her mother dies. When hyenas meet each other, there is a lot of private part sniffing, which is a part bonding, part dominance exercise. The higher-ranking individuals will also often bite, or shake the sub dominant ones, and a lot of squealing and subservient body language and actions take place. Every now and then one would let off a call that can only be described as an alarm bell. I have included a few pictures to give an idea of how these interesting mammals behave, but the book described above throws some great insight into the topic. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7_kfCgsi22x7AnfFpv55PZSfI2roq_Mb6iXIXYKae6s94FBle2WkASYgLsHudYrvCjAhSOI1AbFSqnP-WT9GhXNE8_YU5BKwPVxJRDzCZhfBS43XpvWL_2Q_iGVs4HwOYTNSfUZ5f44/s1600/Cubs+at+den.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7_kfCgsi22x7AnfFpv55PZSfI2roq_Mb6iXIXYKae6s94FBle2WkASYgLsHudYrvCjAhSOI1AbFSqnP-WT9GhXNE8_YU5BKwPVxJRDzCZhfBS43XpvWL_2Q_iGVs4HwOYTNSfUZ5f44/s400/Cubs+at+den.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three Musketeers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizOntE4LLf5oUF4ml8tbv-AwG4gV8I0SQji1KkWRx2lF8HrxKKKIBwq3JdDZdkCGf7ljSdAESQ5IJ2s8LQ37QHiV9jz1sFXPm-Eq4UN6QCmFv4nlhxbtf2Z4O3LM7Z5On_nBy_P5wjXoE/s1600/Hyena+interaction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizOntE4LLf5oUF4ml8tbv-AwG4gV8I0SQji1KkWRx2lF8HrxKKKIBwq3JdDZdkCGf7ljSdAESQ5IJ2s8LQ37QHiV9jz1sFXPm-Eq4UN6QCmFv4nlhxbtf2Z4O3LM7Z5On_nBy_P5wjXoE/s400/Hyena+interaction.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adults approaching the cubs, tails raised in excitement</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DnTZan_D7StRbVulB0Ez_xuiLkWbKbtWq5M0gsy4it9h5XqIUWqN0PHBha1QNNRtoNoiqO0paEHM2VOK6OS1EyyIaDp6tEvWAPxbcTa17kPS1WqfRPe0GP5dJDgTmsutlDldZEYzroo/s1600/Hyena+greetings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DnTZan_D7StRbVulB0Ez_xuiLkWbKbtWq5M0gsy4it9h5XqIUWqN0PHBha1QNNRtoNoiqO0paEHM2VOK6OS1EyyIaDp6tEvWAPxbcTa17kPS1WqfRPe0GP5dJDgTmsutlDldZEYzroo/s400/Hyena+greetings.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greeting rituals all around the densite</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I eventually arrived back at 2.30, a few lions sightings under the belt, and feeling exhausted. I set my alarm for 4.30, but must have slept through it playing ‘The Can Can’ for around an hour until it finally woke me up at 5.20pm…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWORx43uanfoY35c6e2dEDTJKpuK8WzzqypSTYvHTSUy2p-Bf82IinvjYXyCUZxBvf7PQKN6NA4bIsfRjS0hA23FPoys9yAYQkLiMVku1wsTR8-KwEZR2vszCwwSHLXrXgHKCeLMowt_Q/s1600/Lower+Sabie+leopard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWORx43uanfoY35c6e2dEDTJKpuK8WzzqypSTYvHTSUy2p-Bf82IinvjYXyCUZxBvf7PQKN6NA4bIsfRjS0hA23FPoys9yAYQkLiMVku1wsTR8-KwEZR2vszCwwSHLXrXgHKCeLMowt_Q/s400/Lower+Sabie+leopard.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leopard on the rocks</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I drove down to the river, where I found a very interesting and heart breaking sighting unfolding. On the rocks, too far for any decent photography, were two leopards, a mother and her nearly independent cub. She was ignoring him as he dragged about a baby bushbuck, which could not have been more than two weeks old. The heart breaking part was that it was still alive, and had apparently been caught nearly two hours previously. Every time he released his grasp, or began to lick it, it would try to break free, very feebly, occasionally falling off the boulders. He would then jump down and reclaim his prize, who would try and kick out, to no avail. The little calf's eyes were glazed over, and it seems incredible that it was still alive, barely able to move, which just shows the determination of life to find a way. Its fate is of course inevitable, as it is exhausted and weak, but the cub must be learning a valuable lesson on how to kill its prey. Below are a few photo’s, heavily cropped, for interest's sake.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cub and glazed- eyed lamb</td></tr>
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Tonight I think I will have noodles again, as making proper food seems far too much of an effort right now!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJd0MaPvjcdKb_g8dG4mvIdFXENF6AmZPdGIupfg6CZlbQwCY2nAptb6mUXoCQpDki_rKn7jqD9U16bore3hXnG_PVn6LbNkvJqtRezTJcrpAQOk2FjcY3r1n0W0NzQSTtiIV_RKMTNY/s1600/Bee+eaters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJd0MaPvjcdKb_g8dG4mvIdFXENF6AmZPdGIupfg6CZlbQwCY2nAptb6mUXoCQpDki_rKn7jqD9U16bore3hXnG_PVn6LbNkvJqtRezTJcrpAQOk2FjcY3r1n0W0NzQSTtiIV_RKMTNY/s400/Bee+eaters.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baboon's hand</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-43892869091006005122011-11-30T21:40:00.002+02:002011-11-30T21:44:40.429+02:00Kruger part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_WXMneQhLrCS1XkA94UGueoba25PbWtjnF2buasUEhyixB0RHiMh73C-5QD7A-DEOLimaRbYdk8Bu3Av8gxjPpJuBDwlwyRIlqNTfLaM5ELnkv5DyJc89jmxYJv5jOm_g7Ni51P0xVA/s1600/_MG_0388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_WXMneQhLrCS1XkA94UGueoba25PbWtjnF2buasUEhyixB0RHiMh73C-5QD7A-DEOLimaRbYdk8Bu3Av8gxjPpJuBDwlwyRIlqNTfLaM5ELnkv5DyJc89jmxYJv5jOm_g7Ni51P0xVA/s400/_MG_0388.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Day 3 got off to a charging start again. At around 3am, the first Woodlands Kingfishers begin their shrill calling to one another. It is such a fantastic sound, the perfect sound of summer, and when it wakes me, I just lie in bed and listen to them, a smile on my face and a slight flutter of excitement in my heart. Inevitably I fall asleep again, and struggle to find my phone to switch the alarm off when it begins to ring at 4am. Once the coffee is ready, it’s off to the gate, spotlights at hand. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">After driving an hour or so, I spotted a huge herd of sleepy buffalo at a dam. It was overcast, so I gave them an obligatory look, before driving on. Not 20 metres later, out of the corner of my eye I saw a tail flick, and there lay a cheetah - unbelievable the 5<sup>th</sup> of the trip, in only 3 days! This was a serious surprise; if it wasn’t for the photos I would think I dreamt it. Almost at once said cheetah raised his lanky form up from the ground and walked over to a small rock, which he climbed on to get a better view of the area. There were some impala rams grazing infront of him, and a small herd of females behind. He just sat, biding his time, with the patience of a cat. When he deemed the moment <br />
right, he began to stalk them. After about 10 minutes, the ones on the road behind spotted him, which gave rise to a cacophony of snorts as they all alarm called as one. This didn’t seem to disturb him, and he continued on his way towards the bachelor herd until he was within about 20 metres and each impala in the vicinity had his or her eye trained firmly on the cheetah, emitting a deep snort every couple of seconds. It was quite an experience to be in the middle of all the snorting impala, and, but for the safety of the car doors, I may have felt just like one. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Claws with a purpose</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">With the excitement over, the cheetah cut his losses and trotted off down the road. All this time, we had been alone at the sighting, over half an hour of private game viewing in Kruger… A while later we were joined by a few other cars, but had a great position at the front when the cheetah came upon a broken tree, and climbed it to scent mark and scan through the trees. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fantastic Vantage point</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We did virtually a full day in the park, having a breakfasty lunch at Nkhulu Picnic site. Nkhulu is known for its ‘buffalo pies’, but I can inform you of a far better kept secret on the menu: Chicken burgers. We discovered them last year, and to this date I have eaten no equal. I don’t know whether it’s the sauce, the onions, or the basting, but they are incredible! We drove all the way there from Pretoriuskop just to enjoy one, and it did not disappoint. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">On the way back, we had a pleasant surprise in the form of a leopard lying completely relaxed in an open tree rising above the bushes below. There was no ‘light’ to speak of, but it was great viewing, with hardly any other cars for company. This meant we had seen the ‘Super Seven’! (My big 5, plus Cheetah and Wild dog). Not a bad start at all, with 39 nights still to go… <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Day 4 dawned overcast, to match my mood. I had just found out that our Exam marks were out, and I was certain I had failed. In fact, I had resigned myself to some serious failure, and was not looking forward to finding them out. That aside, from this evening I was to be alone, as Dan was flying back to Cape Town. Poor Bart was also due at Landrover Nelspruit, to have his new handbrake lining fitted, and I was concerned. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">My day improved relatively quickly when we found a few hyena pups playing outside their den. If you know me, you will know I have quite a thing for hyena, I think they are powerful and strong, and the pups are just gorgeous. If you have seen a small one, you will understand. They behave just like puppies, with naughty eyes that melt your heart. They have not yet developed the patchiness of their parents, nor do they have missing ears or scars all over. They are just plain cute. These 2 came right up to the car, sniffing around out of curiosity. It was very difficult to restrain myself from reaching out and ruffling the hair on one's head, as he was in easy reaching distance. They then began to chew on the tyres, and we spoke to them just as you would a badly trained puppy, with phrases like ‘I told you not to do that’ and ‘next time you’ll get quite a smack’. Each time they would jump a few feet backwards, as if they knew they had done something wrong. When the talking failed to work, a gentle tap on Bart’s side did the trick. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cubs at play</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In your face cuteness!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going for the tyre!</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The duo then decided to chase each other around in circles, and try and inflict some of those scars I previously spoke of. The best part was that the whole time they appeared to be looking at us, almost as though they were making sure we were paying them attention! About two hours later, the mother wandered off and the kids disappeared down into their den. We said goodbye, and began the long trek to Nelspruit where Bart was fixed in record time… </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Before I knew it, I was back in the park, alone. I may sound crazy, but I was a little sad, and already a little lonely. I have never done something like this before! A few kilometers from Pretoriuskop I got the call I had been dreading all day… “You passed!” I’ll admit that I cried and laughed, and screamed a little bit, all at once, and anyone who had seen me would have thought me insane. I was just happy beyond belief. And there is nothing like 2 minutes noodles followed by jelly to celebrate. That bottle of wine in the corner is eyeing me suspiciously as I type…<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hyena cub at densite</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-90956441964712020892011-11-29T04:08:00.000+02:002011-11-29T04:08:27.720+02:00Kruger (part 1)<div class="MsoNormal"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant at Biyamiti Weir</td></tr>
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Finally back in Kruger, after what felt like an exceptionally long wait, and man, is it great to be back! On arrival, one friendly gate assistant, two vehicles having a fight (one man sitting on the others bonnet with a stone) and we’re in. I barely have time to register the sound of a woodlands kingfisher, one of the most vocal summer residents, before we spot a cheetah casually sauntering through the trees on the right. Its not a great sighting, but it certainly gets the blood flowing to my brain, and wakes me up after the 2 day drive up from Cape Town…<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The first camp on my itinerary is Pretoriuskop, a camp I have always stayed at first on any Kruger trips, which I guess has become a kind of tradition. All I want to do is get out on an afternoon drive, so luggage is quickly offloaded and the meat put in the freezer… that’s the theory anyway. The reality is that the only meat to speak of was a packet of boerwors. None of my carefully packaged into individual portion Ostrich steak, chicken fillet, lamb or boerwors has made it to Kruger. Its still sitting where it was left in the freezer, waiting for the holiday it was promised, that never materialized.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This is not as much of a problem as it sounds, as of course Bart (a beautiful bush green Landrover) will at some point give issues, and provide me with ample time in a mall where I can re-shop to my hearts content. It was day 2 when this happened, quick even by Bart’s standards. One of the joys of owning a Landrover is that whenever a trip to the bush is taken, it generously affords you the opportunity to explore the nearest town mall. I know the Nelspruit, Windhoek and Upington malls very well, and the Bloemfontein ‘waterfront’ far better than I had ever dreamed. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hyena falling asleep in the water and blowing bubbles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">European Bee eaters near the camp</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Other than this minor set back - which turns out is a result of the handbrake lining ‘not being there' (“It looks like it fell out!” said the service manager) - Kruger is just as wonderful as I remember. This is only the second full day in the park, but I have seen cheetah 3 times already, as well as plenty of hyena, including a den site with around 6 youngsters. The woodlands are out in full force, filling the sky with their calls, each one bringing a smile to my face. There are also many impala young around, their over sized ears and long stick-like legs a delight. <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">This morning, I had a fantastic sighting of wild dogs. It was not long after sunrise when I called a halt to look at what seemed to be a white bush blowing in the wind. My first thought was vultures on a kill, but reversing, it turned out to be a pack of wild dog, quickly finishing off the remains of that morning's kill. As soon as it was down, they skipped excitedly onto the road infront of us, and began to trot away down it. We followed, trying our best to photograph the quick moving animals. There were about 8 in the pack, only 3 adults and the rest this years pups (around 6 months old). </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">All of a sudden they began to bark agitatedly, and their tails went up as they do when alarmed or excited. The continued yelping eventually revealed a cheetah, slinking onto the road ahead. He was closely followed by another! What luck, I could hardly believe my eyes, and this, almost to ourselves!! </div><div class="MsoNormal">We stayed with the wild dogs as they ran away, barking and jumping, before they left the road. Then we returned to the cheetah, who after some scent marking and a brisk march, came to rest on a sandy patch, as did we.<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">It has been quite a hectic first few days, and I am so looking forward to the next 40 or so before I leave! We even saw a couple of lions, and a couple of hours ago a Long Crested Eagle, which I believe is a first for me. Not a great sighting photographically, but a clear indication of where he got his name! It made me a little giddy to see him, scared I am turning into a birder <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Wingdings;">:) </span> Now for some dinner… <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long Crested Eagle- proof!</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-72265241295706521832011-11-06T13:49:00.002+02:002011-11-07T13:55:46.113+02:00Dreaming of sunshine in South LuangwaSince the first time I heard about it, South Luangwa has been one of those dreamy destinations for me. A beautiful old park, far enough from South Africa to add that bit of excitement, and never travelled to by anyone I know. Then I went there last year, and it just confirmed its status in my mind. It is one hell of a park!<br />
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Arriving there is enough to get anyone excited- as soon as you step off the plane in Lusaka you are greeted by a wall of hot air, and that busy disorganized feeling so typical of Africa. A few hours in a hot restaurant, drinking barely chilled drinks, and a short flight later and you arrive in Mfuwe airport: dusty, small and on the outskirts of a small, traditional town, with a potholed road full of people on bicycles running through it. This is Africa! The shops are called things like 'Uncle Sams general dealer and Barber' and 'We know your prayers general dealer'. The children on the side of the road all carry smaller children on their backs, and shout out 'Sweeties!' as you drive past. In the middle of the town, there is a 'disco' happening, with some men on stage doing a terrible rendition of dancing. It's just perfect, and before you know it you wind up on the banks of the beautiful Luangwa river at sunset.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch under the trees on the banks of the river.</td></tr>
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Well, it would have been sunset, but we had brought the rain queen in all her glory on this trip. Turns out, the first two days we were not to see the sun! I, however, could imagine the sunset, as it had been just over a year since my previous visit, and I can assure you it is magical.<br />
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The trip I was now on was with<a href="http://www.c4images-safaris.co.za/"> </a><a href="http://www.c4images-safaris.co.za/">C4images and Safaris</a>, a fantastic photographic company for anyone wanting to travel and photograph with like minded people. This is my third trip with them, and definitely not my last!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjG3Wm5keuYT8IhCyaF-I7uCLFPll9cTLKsXM2CIi1z5t58Uxx_yG7OhIChoOZKP6si9pZ0yXvdjG7IHFmLa3WYVzpk3PVNN6t2Z0XPcbwRZJfweIJwjXjQNNyrqk5yXV6-TUaiymkt4/s1600/20111008-_MG_416931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjG3Wm5keuYT8IhCyaF-I7uCLFPll9cTLKsXM2CIi1z5t58Uxx_yG7OhIChoOZKP6si9pZ0yXvdjG7IHFmLa3WYVzpk3PVNN6t2Z0XPcbwRZJfweIJwjXjQNNyrqk5yXV6-TUaiymkt4/s640/20111008-_MG_416931.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landscaping lessons while the light was bad.</td></tr>
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The lodge we stayed at is called Chichele Presidential lodge and is run by Sanctuary Retreats. It is a gracious, timeless looking lodge, and was extremely well managed. Our ranger was named Prince, and if you do go there, I would suggest that you request him. We had five nights in the park, and from the moment we arrived, nothing was too much trouble for him. We even requested a 4.30am wake-up, so that we could be on the go by 5 - and the lodge accommodated that without a hesitation. It may sound strange, but for me that is one of the hallmarks of a good lodge- when requests such as this are not met with resistance, but instead with enthusiasm! It was then just up to us to keep that enthusiasm going even when we started getting tired, and when the clouds refused to lift above the horizon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEN3h8epqAkQVjj_eRMCWvoEjmd4-rzyMjChbagT_xixIGl4H-7B7m523K_L1FSkACBtgAQ2NtxzUBZvrlb0w_xh03JN7cAWZqCCvhWH2ftD4Pej6T9-GreIlGMQIWD__FLjbSBOYLwU/s1600/20111008-_MG_666550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEN3h8epqAkQVjj_eRMCWvoEjmd4-rzyMjChbagT_xixIGl4H-7B7m523K_L1FSkACBtgAQ2NtxzUBZvrlb0w_xh03JN7cAWZqCCvhWH2ftD4Pej6T9-GreIlGMQIWD__FLjbSBOYLwU/s400/20111008-_MG_666550.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puku- my favourite antelope.</td></tr>
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We did see the sun though, on the third day: and it brought the park to life. Puku suddenly became backlit Puku, the river suddenly became a landscaping dream, and my arms suddenly became tanned. And while the sun was out, we did our best to make the absolute most of it! I think we all must have slept like the dead the night we arrived back in Joburg, but we cannot say we didn't make the most of our far- too- short five nights in South Luangwa.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_pmdDUfcI353Y7Tt_gwZMe6VorT3T0zC-atP9eZEmA1KH0IIspB6kxh-QDoQNGj-0znz1Qnmin47-TKZPSy5WOBQ4pU-26927G3hr7PJmh2HSD-7pPSpL5CRPLv78f8Tn7pV6zctNUsM/s1600/20111009-_MG_422259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_pmdDUfcI353Y7Tt_gwZMe6VorT3T0zC-atP9eZEmA1KH0IIspB6kxh-QDoQNGj-0znz1Qnmin47-TKZPSy5WOBQ4pU-26927G3hr7PJmh2HSD-7pPSpL5CRPLv78f8Tn7pV6zctNUsM/s640/20111009-_MG_422259.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04QJpWzJjAs83oQ_pRFRz9iFGMgHJ8QjW61csbzNR0sU_qBWtB8-u-SUddvBrXwUHMRjP6-HcM8JytOkxvhBzoAAUTNUL2RAoLW0LtprSXQ-GmXpBnVvu2Pb7UvD_kr26x9DmV694kb0/s1600/20111009-_MG_978037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04QJpWzJjAs83oQ_pRFRz9iFGMgHJ8QjW61csbzNR0sU_qBWtB8-u-SUddvBrXwUHMRjP6-HcM8JytOkxvhBzoAAUTNUL2RAoLW0LtprSXQ-GmXpBnVvu2Pb7UvD_kr26x9DmV694kb0/s640/20111009-_MG_978037.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilKYNdpy34WQOFulyEcoVmmKX8UuPJfoCuehqOn9nYl3eZuxxXF4gGyAk_KdoKG2R2O83dpsSzpPkdTTS53uDVtT3g8zqtx1LhT-8Dhci5qTi_UcbrGg-UrsevzJKuiNK5nhnI-d6Zxxo/s1600/20111009-_MG_425910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilKYNdpy34WQOFulyEcoVmmKX8UuPJfoCuehqOn9nYl3eZuxxXF4gGyAk_KdoKG2R2O83dpsSzpPkdTTS53uDVtT3g8zqtx1LhT-8Dhci5qTi_UcbrGg-UrsevzJKuiNK5nhnI-d6Zxxo/s640/20111009-_MG_425910.jpg" width="420" /></a></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-40125550313383356692011-09-29T15:17:00.002+02:002011-09-29T15:27:13.513+02:00I love Rhino's<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76YwBCNh8L5Aqb8Mb8ICNKuDojIlEiAQkDkVHMNSf3eSPrakahFd1im9c4sZqBcuYkTFtzX1p6GYxRgQ4SINBfdIdlmjj2LhYOtDu5dZdRLtGSozLDVky34TW0MnXQJIhkcunfKlrvmM/s1600/IMG_9442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76YwBCNh8L5Aqb8Mb8ICNKuDojIlEiAQkDkVHMNSf3eSPrakahFd1im9c4sZqBcuYkTFtzX1p6GYxRgQ4SINBfdIdlmjj2LhYOtDu5dZdRLtGSozLDVky34TW0MnXQJIhkcunfKlrvmM/s640/IMG_9442.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Black Rhino kicking up dust on his way to the waterhole during the dry season.</td></tr>
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Recently, the world (and I) celebrated World Rhino Day. The stats are not looking great for these beautiful creatures, with a new incident of poaching nearly every day. Something needs to be done, and there are many good people working toward the common goal of Saving the Rhino. One of the easiest ways to help as a South African is to get your hands on a MySchool/ MyPlanet card. You can then choose the Endangered Wildlife Trust's Rhino Fund as your beneficiary, and every time you swipe at participating stores (most notably, Woolworths), a portion of your spending is donated, at no cost to you. This is completely free, and can be ordered from <a href="http://www.myschool.co.za/">www.myschool.co.za</a> and clicking on the 'get a card link'.Another trustworthy charity, and further information can be found at <a href="http://www.savingprivaterhino.org/">www.savingprivaterhino.org</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht899IBftIOCVJDY2KLNOiR-_MUyVAL5UopTq72oAOgXOnu9bqLyxjVU6nLl1hOPGp3kygj1NrwERNnVh0jpvlDSiAjI7toJ5NxzjwU4YTp1pmQdLDYVS5JXPuExyJeRhbqntoNpZkZ1o/s1600/_MG_7214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht899IBftIOCVJDY2KLNOiR-_MUyVAL5UopTq72oAOgXOnu9bqLyxjVU6nLl1hOPGp3kygj1NrwERNnVh0jpvlDSiAjI7toJ5NxzjwU4YTp1pmQdLDYVS5JXPuExyJeRhbqntoNpZkZ1o/s640/_MG_7214.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reflection of a Black Rhino at sunset</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi021qnTVjQgTtd8L3Mr966IL3gv8ZG7Ymfa1LVJQ6IxH1lbjmsGepGuRqUjG303GgkJsKfMUv9l3_JdkAyG6Xgu8SrSg4Mpt3l8S-vsdGDFLWpSBQ2TWXdPb8BfC79LwszPPJ1eE7f7jY/s1600/_MG_9072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi021qnTVjQgTtd8L3Mr966IL3gv8ZG7Ymfa1LVJQ6IxH1lbjmsGepGuRqUjG303GgkJsKfMUv9l3_JdkAyG6Xgu8SrSg4Mpt3l8S-vsdGDFLWpSBQ2TWXdPb8BfC79LwszPPJ1eE7f7jY/s640/_MG_9072.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQ1DUMqbhIlgUwCp3on7KNAdCG141gFbsFbJCdXJvefT0lENI9V2wIb9zXOw_ukRs9RZPLNeAi8yQuTgLISYXoww5129VLBVmp9zzP9SNnuNv694DQ5CAYi5hKKuqYeasF1Byulpx4Qg/s1600/IMG_0190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQ1DUMqbhIlgUwCp3on7KNAdCG141gFbsFbJCdXJvefT0lENI9V2wIb9zXOw_ukRs9RZPLNeAi8yQuTgLISYXoww5129VLBVmp9zzP9SNnuNv694DQ5CAYi5hKKuqYeasF1Byulpx4Qg/s640/IMG_0190.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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On World Rhino Day, Getaway, along with Rhino Africa and others, organized an awareness protest outside of Parliament in Cape Town. Along with a couple of friends, I popped down to do a bit of shouting and listening to various speakers and to partake in my first South African Protest... The turnout was pretty good, with many from the 'younger generation' which I think is very positive for the future of conservation in South Africa.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr867SFq316EDyPAeEkxXDIVf_-RJwjFminhXcRkvn9YM2FRfwXcrjI_SWqiXyJYe57jkWDFM9zO0lWcJVrAUumzanEPDMfIiyt7cAcPF5qgJg7OcvCGaYcOGOPAdiixSDrj8GRa6YF5g/s1600/20100922-DSCN312558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr867SFq316EDyPAeEkxXDIVf_-RJwjFminhXcRkvn9YM2FRfwXcrjI_SWqiXyJYe57jkWDFM9zO0lWcJVrAUumzanEPDMfIiyt7cAcPF5qgJg7OcvCGaYcOGOPAdiixSDrj8GRa6YF5g/s400/20100922-DSCN312558.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOe8MKmXiwNTMId0dSQv2NOi3IZ3VtfLvKM3DkYm1sFoizOZghl1tW1jiRM-RSIrQ4t9yLPSHGUonOgcMKiRttCogh75Jr_bSFHHRpkWXxKD1ybnFEMcEmQnm33teZFPnN2uZmfPntK6I/s1600/20100922-DSCN312707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOe8MKmXiwNTMId0dSQv2NOi3IZ3VtfLvKM3DkYm1sFoizOZghl1tW1jiRM-RSIrQ4t9yLPSHGUonOgcMKiRttCogh75Jr_bSFHHRpkWXxKD1ybnFEMcEmQnm33teZFPnN2uZmfPntK6I/s400/20100922-DSCN312707.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside Parliament in Cape Town</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-wTTyI9LhP4w4UfxSEE1ixTL82Nv5PUzdrqpsHs8nOrpsPKvm_npFewFmESAWwMSMQVOR8mI0rvXyIjI25pBquO3AE8rnHXnDV6gz_tJJrJq5JhxsBAOVajO2ZaXI6oq6fozPB26Plo/s1600/20100922-DSCN313110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-wTTyI9LhP4w4UfxSEE1ixTL82Nv5PUzdrqpsHs8nOrpsPKvm_npFewFmESAWwMSMQVOR8mI0rvXyIjI25pBquO3AE8rnHXnDV6gz_tJJrJq5JhxsBAOVajO2ZaXI6oq6fozPB26Plo/s400/20100922-DSCN313110.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />
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Here are a few pictures from my more memorable Rhino sightings. I really hope that I have many more years ahead of photographing these giants, they are beautiful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ43Gao507OBQ1oxtbruyiXH45iWKxsav9sZpHEBhX1pThOnc7jk1LZF1vjoyKdbkTEPzeaE7W557rN4e4M0xO8vbX0TcRASAozVcY1TrJLsxSczYwkC4E8RTanlEXRVFQbOMvJhChhPc/s1600/_MG_0302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ43Gao507OBQ1oxtbruyiXH45iWKxsav9sZpHEBhX1pThOnc7jk1LZF1vjoyKdbkTEPzeaE7W557rN4e4M0xO8vbX0TcRASAozVcY1TrJLsxSczYwkC4E8RTanlEXRVFQbOMvJhChhPc/s640/_MG_0302.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooling off in the waterhole at night.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0jzRL3KxYDLbk9v6wPS1AUIwVcKGgNfbfEdCosED7pyoVHzCFa2Mle5A5R_QtBlzmmpF53rEVtEIUYCHgQf3a6cc5ATFBMQE624uSjiGgPYlRHqoFknmHdUiumyId9i-RPJ3KugqrV8/s1600/_MG_0498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0jzRL3KxYDLbk9v6wPS1AUIwVcKGgNfbfEdCosED7pyoVHzCFa2Mle5A5R_QtBlzmmpF53rEVtEIUYCHgQf3a6cc5ATFBMQE624uSjiGgPYlRHqoFknmHdUiumyId9i-RPJ3KugqrV8/s640/_MG_0498.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Rhino at last light</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTw2SdVvs2n8blIgMTrEwJM6-AAIp2Rubag-rYkj_FV94iNZo0Zm2zrICZhxieEoGwm9sCQ8DqS0vPsSwbY4tHSCU1spK9hPh4fprRH_gDRbsHr0zRblWdAmPPoOK51oyFoePq0-QXyU/s1600/IMG_2322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTw2SdVvs2n8blIgMTrEwJM6-AAIp2Rubag-rYkj_FV94iNZo0Zm2zrICZhxieEoGwm9sCQ8DqS0vPsSwbY4tHSCU1spK9hPh4fprRH_gDRbsHr0zRblWdAmPPoOK51oyFoePq0-QXyU/s640/IMG_2322.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a very amusing sighting of a White Rhino 'having his way' with a termite mound.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-68857772759083506492011-09-15T14:52:00.006+02:002011-09-23T16:41:02.986+02:00Birds, Birds, Everywhere...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTo_jYaHoS6L4prcRoNZHG1r-O7JGKAsszVH2zA8JEX6DDh0Ru7yc2ImqfbqRJGU3wVbtyOpgDRdCRePW8fJSSaTXqfNX2M7Rid-xmJUV4hUPsjRzIjXOGGcJb5z8WuRn4r3pM5MXxh1Q/s1600/_MG_2349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTo_jYaHoS6L4prcRoNZHG1r-O7JGKAsszVH2zA8JEX6DDh0Ru7yc2ImqfbqRJGU3wVbtyOpgDRdCRePW8fJSSaTXqfNX2M7Rid-xmJUV4hUPsjRzIjXOGGcJb5z8WuRn4r3pM5MXxh1Q/s400/_MG_2349.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDT6cav4nYJB_1EgL8xUNLSbcMf1yAB5G_WDewhgqyefCYDlkAKVhpi5nuTyx17xpAM9M0p-Pf67E8rYYQjL86G2IkLoZi7_c6dxtDLcHaLTyqUQE4IqdrcXde-gMQfMyvE_6pl16FKI/s1600/_MG_2376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDT6cav4nYJB_1EgL8xUNLSbcMf1yAB5G_WDewhgqyefCYDlkAKVhpi5nuTyx17xpAM9M0p-Pf67E8rYYQjL86G2IkLoZi7_c6dxtDLcHaLTyqUQE4IqdrcXde-gMQfMyvE_6pl16FKI/s400/_MG_2376.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Guillemots on Ice</td></tr>
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One thing that is immediately evident when I look through my Arctic photo's is that birds played a large role in filling up my hard drive space- I have more bird images than i have ever before taken in a trip, or in all my trips combined. There is of course a logical explanation for this coming from me- a non birder - the bird life there is incredible!! Sure, it may not have a long species list, or even a short one- but what the Arctic waters lack in variety, they certainly make up for in sheer volume. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Akademik Ioffe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLdMA3Up6FnQo9bXhpdk0EBrrU6sCNNKYQCzkzcED2IWTALWzGdAf_5fLLuJaKVwUuOvddrWaeWGZNXAm5Png_K774td9HkLeOHYYfvQJrFqDVnyuYRh57YyAlxYpvTyfFJaOoSG3m5s/s1600/_MG_3355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqLdMA3Up6FnQo9bXhpdk0EBrrU6sCNNKYQCzkzcED2IWTALWzGdAf_5fLLuJaKVwUuOvddrWaeWGZNXAm5Png_K774td9HkLeOHYYfvQJrFqDVnyuYRh57YyAlxYpvTyfFJaOoSG3m5s/s400/_MG_3355.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacier and sea</td></tr>
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Each year millions ( and yes I do mean actual millions, not the colloquial term used to describe 'alot') of birds gather in the Arctic Waters to breed, and to feed their chicks on the rich abundance of food that brings the cold ocean to life. The birds gather in huge colonies on cliffs, sometimes covering every inch of available 'shelf space' as it were. The higher the cliff, the safer the chicks will be from the Arctic Foxes and Polar Bears which patrol the shores. There are hardly any words to describe the sound one hears when nearing a breeding colony. The calls echo off the cliffs, and multiply as each bird adds its voice to the chorus. The sky sometimes appears hazy, as the birds in their thousands take off, flying out to sea and their hunting grounds, before returning, crop full, to feed the youngsters. Sometimes on their return there is no space on their ledge to land, and this leads to an outbreak of calls as they either shove their way into a gap, or have to stop their approach. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSh9Wt_E-3-5VBcps7cbfqMLOCR4gg2oxnziXcSf5oD0_4j8SoAJq3raKbM9ycQH-9DdNe2eQ9546_5Zo9Z50HVOYJ6RU8pq-udONzubaHzG3lEGGGLNk-HUgQAIFmFcDBq-o4sWEpo_o/s1600/_MG_2246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSh9Wt_E-3-5VBcps7cbfqMLOCR4gg2oxnziXcSf5oD0_4j8SoAJq3raKbM9ycQH-9DdNe2eQ9546_5Zo9Z50HVOYJ6RU8pq-udONzubaHzG3lEGGGLNk-HUgQAIFmFcDBq-o4sWEpo_o/s400/_MG_2246.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Auk at Colony</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brunnichs Guillemots lining the cliffs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_b0wevNosBv_2bXszVPeIMhhSfLMUtEwZNetDwxsCB9UA7__-a_RxMZKZRL2-S7wUnTqEQGIKxC4rz30mGBT8KqHnrU6y7cm2CdW2zFT98jHhAyAfsCzeZ9JTCZFqGKd4sAl3iqIthNU/s1600/_MG_2689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_b0wevNosBv_2bXszVPeIMhhSfLMUtEwZNetDwxsCB9UA7__-a_RxMZKZRL2-S7wUnTqEQGIKxC4rz30mGBT8KqHnrU6y7cm2CdW2zFT98jHhAyAfsCzeZ9JTCZFqGKd4sAl3iqIthNU/s400/_MG_2689.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brunnichs Guillemots at Alkefjellet</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjP5LsfRQxyjK04712abmIurB0nBBA_QU_tXO24g5kYiwb8P0E8YHuBKDg9ge2dvEa-MwkBgvKz39zWYhxDLUArCOqPwAY_j1me8ZdndC8JRnhe2tUMNdlq8lWX9AtXxwLpzX_UUI2tXU/s1600/_MG_2806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjP5LsfRQxyjK04712abmIurB0nBBA_QU_tXO24g5kYiwb8P0E8YHuBKDg9ge2dvEa-MwkBgvKz39zWYhxDLUArCOqPwAY_j1me8ZdndC8JRnhe2tUMNdlq8lWX9AtXxwLpzX_UUI2tXU/s400/_MG_2806.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlantic Puffin near Smeerenburg</td></tr>
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From the first evening when I stepped aboard the Akademik Ioffe, I was confronted with birders. There were two groups on board the ship, and as I ran up and down the stairs, exploring every nook and cranny, I met them. They are easy to spot- they're the ones with a pair of Swarovski Binoculars around their necks, and a spotting scope and tripod permanently hanging over their shoulder. When out on deck, they are always there- gazing off into the distance, calling out names as they spot. One of the leaders of the <a href="http://www.rockjumperbirding.com/">Rockjumper Birding</a> group, Mark, found out quite quickly that I was super keen to see a puffin. The next two days, every time I stood on deck, the air was punctuated with 'puffin'... 'Laura.... PUFFIN'. Sometimes I was a bit slow to react, but I certainly saw my puffin- thanks Mark! <br />
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I was part of a group of photographers on the ship, run by <a href="http://www.oryxphotography.com/">Oryx Photography</a>. Our guide was a talented photographer by the name of Elliott Neep- he was excellent to have around! We had worked out very soon that when in a place where the sun never sets, it is best not to sleep, or at the least, sleep when there's definitely nothing better to do. Having done the trip before, Elliott told us that the best light is around 2am. Sometimes at 2am we were sailing through open ocean, but the fourth night, we were moving slowly through a fjord, and everything just fell into place. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skimming on Glass</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck on a pond or Northern Fulmar?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skimming Fulmar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slip- Streaming the ship in the fjords</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touching the water</td></tr>
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The ship provides coffee on tap- and chocolates and an open bar which uses an honestly policy. We had sat in the bar chatting until around 11pm, when we decided to go and have another look on deck. It was magic- the air was crisp, the water was like glass, and the mountains on all sides were ice capped, the odd piece of ice floating past, and birds all around us. One of the larger birds is called a Northern Fulmar, and is part of the tube nose family, similar in a way to an Albatross. These birds were slip- streaming the ship, sometimes flying so close to us that we could have touched them. Quite often one would turn and get a huge fright as a bird materialised, larger than your field of view, a metre or so from your face! The four of us stood on deck until 4am that morning, photographing as the birds flew all around the boat, the odd whale surfaced in the distance, and school of seals swam at the bow. We only went to bed when all the memory cards we had brought were full, and our arms were dead from hand holding long lenses for hours! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arctic Tern and Iceberg</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kittiwakes on Ice</td></tr>
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The last day provided yet another fantastic birding opportunity when we got stuck by drift ice. We searched for a way around it, but finding none had to make our way through it instead. The 10 miles of ice took us 7 hours to break through! It was very exciting, pushing our way through the ice, and was exciting for the birds too... When the ship pushes through ice, it uses a water system to generate thrust and push the ice away as much as possible. This means that the water in churned up on all sides, and small fish are pushed toward the surface. It was a feast for the birds, and they spend the whole day flying around us, fighting over scraps and fishing over the ice. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bow surrounded by ice!</td></tr>
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We saw virtually all the bird species we could on that trip- my highlight naturally being the Atlantic Puffin and the Little Auks, as well as the Snow Bunting- the only singing bird in Svalbard. What a trip! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common Eider Drake take-off attempt</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arctic Tern fishing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gulls and Iceberg in Mist</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Legged Kittiwake in environment</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northern Fulmar and Ice</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-3428054828632322092011-09-09T11:04:00.000+02:002011-09-09T11:06:13.957+02:00My first Bear, Little Auks and a walk on Smeerenburg<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arctic Tern fishing</td></tr>
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This extract is taken from my diary and was written while drinking hot coffee in the bar, glowing with excitement while sailing through the High Arctic.</div>
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‘It's sometimes hard to believe where I am, sitting here in the bar, warming myself up after a day spent photographing the beautiful and wild Arctic. A few minutes ago, I was sitting on my ass, face red, having just fallen down in the Zodiac, as the swells buffeted us against our ship, the Akademik Ioffe. We had just been photographing Little Auks at a large nesting colony on the cliffs in the bay. They are real little characters: fat, with beautiful curved eyes, set in a dark brown head, with white eyelids. Real characters. The climb to them was up some steep cliffs, and over many a large boulder. In fact it is quite a surprise that we all escaped unharmed, except for Elliott, our photographic guide, who hurt his wrist. I had been photographing perched on a boulder, foot wedged between two for stability, and only open ocean below me. I do get vertigo, but here I seemed fine, completely distracted by the plethora of life around me. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Auk Flutter</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giving me 'the eye'</td></tr>
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The Little Auks have very small wings- in fact they are just big enough to fly. The reason that they weren’t graced with easy flight is that they were instead graced with an amazing swimming ability. They dive to great depths in search of fish, and they do so with a delicate ease and great agility. When they come in to land on the cliffs where they breed, the same cannot be said. A landing is more like a bounce, but they are hardy birds, and they don’t seem to take it too badly. One may wonder why they breed in such precarious positions? The reason is that if it’s hard to get to, there is less chance of a fox or Polar Bear raiding the nest. It also means that us humans have to put in a lot more effort to take a good photo!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bear on the beach...</td></tr>
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This morning, day two of our trip, we saw Nanuk- our first Polar Bear. We had just landed to go for a walk, and the first group had walked for about 5 minutes and was watching a seal when they realized a bear was in turn watching them. We heard the call over the radio, having just piled off our zodiac, and immediately began looking for him while the leaders fussed around, getting us to put our recently discarded lifejackets back on. We were then shepherded onto the boats, for the bear’s safety and ours, as there is no use in our foolishness causing the death of a beautiful bear. I was on the boat in a second, after snapping off two very quick and very poor quality shots. My first Polar Bear ever!!! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching a boat full of tasty humans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smelling us?</td></tr>
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We then took to the sea, and watched him pacing it toward the spot where we had been not 15 minutes prior. He was beautiful, a cream- coloured coat with black eyes and black pads on his ever so huge paws. We spent over an hour with him! During that time I filled a memory card, and we got stuck on a small sandbank and had to get out and push ourselves off it. Not all of use, obviously, but enough that it raised the intent interest of the bear. The people on the other boats said that while we were stuck the bear kept his eyes on us, wondering if he was about to get an easy meal! It was incredible- what a special animal to see, what a special memory. It was also our first clear day, and the fjord was beautiful: snow capped mountains, a glacier and our bear. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacier on the opposite side of the bay</td></tr>
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‘Our bear’ then swam across the small fjord and climbed the opposite bank, chased a couple of reindeer, before wandering off over the cliffs, leaving us smiling and me shaking with excitement…’</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">During summer, bears lose up to a kilogram of body weight a day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bears will even eat seaweed during the long summer months</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shake- off!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlantic Puffin- one of my favourite birds!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">This bear was fat and healthy having obviously fed recently.</span></span></span></td></tr>
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The area where we had stopped that day is called Smeerenburg and it is home to an old whaling station. The bay used to be full of whales, and its difficult to imagine what it may have looked like, all those whales before the whalers stuffed them in the blubber ovens. It is said that looking out over the water, one would have seen hundreds of the beautiful creatures, frolicking and feeding. When I looked out I saw none- a sad testament to what humans can do to the planet. </div>
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I can honestly say that that day is likely the most excited I have felt in my whole life. We had seen a bear- the whole reason for this trip- and the one animal I had never dared dream I would see for many a year. Thinking back on it now, I still smile, and get a shiver of excitement. I can so clearly remember him, and how I felt watching the apex predator of the Arctic, and the largest predator on land as he took a stroll through Smeerenberg.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bear tracks and zodiac after we re- landed at Smeerenburg</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking tour of the old whaling station</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my dad in the beautiful Arctic- the trip of a lifetime!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remains of an old blubber oven on Smeerenberg, AmsterdamOya</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lifting anchor after a very special day on the Akademik Ioffe</td></tr>
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Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-13949941480032926612011-08-29T08:18:00.003+02:002011-08-30T20:17:58.987+02:00West Coast MagicI am just back from a short weekend break in the West Coast National Park. I stayed in the Duinepos chalets, a community run project inside the park, and they were really delightful. There were even heaters and an inside fire pre filled with wood! Have a look at www.duinepos.co.za if you are interested in spending a night or two in the park. The chalets are also reasonably priced, in particular if there are 4 of you. The weather was pretty cold most of the weekend, and when we went to the hide early morning before the sun rose, the path felt wet under foot. When we walked back in the light, we could see the reason sparkling before us- there was a good layer of shiny, glittery ice all along the raised platform, with shoe prints clearly showing our earlier path.<br />
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</div><div>One of the main reasons to go to this park at this time of year is that the Postberg Reserve inside the park is open for flower viewing. It only opens for 2 months, and I believe the display this year is pretty good! I know nothing about photographing flowers, or landscapes, so I was really just there to have a look, and to hopefully spot a caracal (I had been told this was my best chance.) The flowers were lovely to see, covering large areas in white, yellow and orange, with herds of Eland ranging from 20- 60 individuals strolling through them. We also saw Wildebeest, Springbok, Blesbok and my first Black Harrier soaring over the dunes. One of the highlights was seeing bat- eared fox listening for insects in the flowers, and I will hopefully pop up there later this week sometime to have another look for them.<br />
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</div><div>My favourite part of the whole weekend was that I got to spend an hour in close proximity to caracal!! This is something that has never happened, except at a wildlife rescue centre where I got to play with 3 kittens which tore my hands to shreds! I was over the moon. The first caracal was very relaxed, and walked along the road, up and down the dunes until some people got out their cars. There are no signs prohibiting this, and common sense is apparently not strong with some (it of course had the effect of scaring the cat away). We waited until they had driven on and then the cat came out again and resumed its stroll. The second time this happened we left. On the way back from the Postberg Reserve, we again saw a very relaxed cat . This cat actually stalked a few birds and came within metres of our car! It was very very exciting to say the least, and is another reason I will be back there soon! The third cat was skittish, and we didn't get to view it well so we decided to leave it in peace.<br />
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</div><div>During the weekend we also saw a snake, and some whales, along with various sea birds and flamingoes. A kestrel near the hide was so relaxed that it allowed me within about half a metre of it before taking to the skies. From the park you can see Table Mountain, so it's not so far from Cape Town as to prohibit a day trip. I look forward to going back, and hopefully seeing some more of those elusive tuft- eared cats.<br />
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-34458739276249850222011-08-12T12:08:00.000+02:002011-08-14T20:56:51.973+02:00Hide and Go seek : Finland and the bears<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Anyone who has flown into Helsinki will know it’s not a particularly large city. It’s also surrounded by forest on all sides, forest as far as the eye can see (…except when the eye is looking at a lake. ) There are 188 000 lakes in Finland, which is a lot of lake. Although even this is not quite as impressive as knowing that 66% of the country is covered by beautiful green forests: forests full of spruce and pine trees, birds, butterflies, moose, reindeer and bears (among others). This is my kind of country, green and natural, where wildlife is allowed to survive relatively undisturbed in natural tracts of land, without fences. I wouldn’t have expected any of you to know these two wonderful facts, as until I climbed into the second (much smaller) propeller plane in Helsinki for my flight to Kajaani, I didn’t either. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">When the din of the propellers finally died down, and I felt safe enough to gaze out the window, all I could see below the odd cloud cover was forest, lake, forest, and lake. It was magical, so much green. Our drive from the airport took just under two, hours, and when I wasn’t sleeping from exhaustion brought on by far insufficient sleep in the Arctic, I just stared out the window while our driver, and the owner of the lodge, Ari, told us about the bears. That was of course the sole reason for our trip to Finland, the chance to watch the European Brown Bears as they go about their business from the safety of a photographic hide.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The lodge itself was set deep in the Taiga forest and was homely and family run. It is on the shore of a small lake, surrounded by trees, and about 2 kilometers from the Russian border. That first evening we basically collapsed into bed straight after dinner, dead to the world. The following day, we decided to take a walk to the border. I don’t think we got there, and I’m not entirely sure we headed in the correct direction, but we did enjoy spending some time in the forest, listening to the birds, watching butterflies and searching for berries. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with my anti-mosquito blanket...</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">That afternoon, we met our host at 4pm for dinner and an introduction to the hides. The hides are situated on the edge of a small lake, in a marsh, surrounded by (obviously) forest. The bears are very shy animals, as they are still hunted in Finland and Russia, although the border area is almost a ‘safe haven’ for them. In Finland at least, permits are very expensive, and not many fins can afford one. Then we started the march to the hide. I say ‘march’, as our guide was on a serious mission. Its just under a kilometer, and we must have covered that distance in max 10 minutes. We were fortunate to have amazing weather, but this also means it was hot. 28 degrees hot most days. Marching as we were up and down little forest paths when the air is muggy and you’re carrying a good 20 kg’s of camera equipment certainly didn’t help us keep cool! One problem with having the Arctic trip right before was that I had basically packed 2 t-shirts. In future, I would take a few more, especially in July during the Finnish summer! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The hides are about 1.7 metres wide, and 1.5 metres long. That included space for bunk beds, and there is no toilet to speak of, just a bucket with a seat and lid (- a good reason not to need the loo!) The first night we were so hot, it took forever to cool down, mostly because we hadn’t been prepared. By the third night we had wet towels with us, and it was pleasant. You can choose your hides each night, depending on the view you want, and then you cannot leave between 5.30pm and 7am the following morning, for obvious reasons. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the bird life around the lake</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We had barely been in the hide for half an hour when our first bear arrived. There are scraps of Salmon hidden under logs for the bears, from the nearby salmon farm. This encourages them to visit the site as part of their nightly foraging. I was over the moon excited to see him, in his shaggy brown coat on the opposite side of the lake. Some gulls scared him off though, and I was worried that would be it for the evening. How wrong was I! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A younger bear with a beautiful coat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This bear is a well known 24 year old Male</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We had around 15 visits that first night, by what I imagine was 5 or 6 individuals. One came to within around 3 meters of the hide, so close we could almost feel his breath! Of course, I had just stuck my head out of one of the 4 lens holes when this happened. and was obliviously day dreaming away when a sharp pat on the back brought me back to reality, and to quite a surprise with the bear staring at me chewing some salmon. They are really beautiful creatures, with very flat faces and huge rear ends. When they run, their whole body shakes from side to side, and they look very comical. Their eyes are a rich brown colour, and the younger ones have incredibly sleek coats of a rich hue. It was quite something to have them so close. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bear 3 metres from my protruding head</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGh7icOVMN5wgnLij8s-BzHu15JM6CU-ZgbUxHgHxuyvIouWWbbFGXWvhUdVXS505gzWlCHH1kCfmM5LD5JUDR96pA147NDxniAn8F4H61QpDpNqPj50wX55XcGduGp0Zfgrv2yYWpHco/s1600/_MG_2727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGh7icOVMN5wgnLij8s-BzHu15JM6CU-ZgbUxHgHxuyvIouWWbbFGXWvhUdVXS505gzWlCHH1kCfmM5LD5JUDR96pA147NDxniAn8F4H61QpDpNqPj50wX55XcGduGp0Zfgrv2yYWpHco/s400/_MG_2727.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About 3 metres from the hide</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWqiyqyQbCEZFYJ0-eXOdeyz2KCtD6WySxdPdHaQZWSX1kTiTeybDQcU77qvg-sP3kw0p0rGelX-DA7DCyaRXcAbSDoHt2hJYSFE1eA2gjxT8wfpG58X7QJwMXbgICwHMUIrseGfDCpM/s1600/_MG_2733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWqiyqyQbCEZFYJ0-eXOdeyz2KCtD6WySxdPdHaQZWSX1kTiTeybDQcU77qvg-sP3kw0p0rGelX-DA7DCyaRXcAbSDoHt2hJYSFE1eA2gjxT8wfpG58X7QJwMXbgICwHMUIrseGfDCpM/s400/_MG_2733.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gulls can make the bears nervous</td></tr>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">That evening I slept about 2 hours, from 12-2pm. It is light enough to see the whole night through, although in the midnight hours it’s a strange blue light, and there was quite often mist rising off the lake. When I woke, and my dad went to sleep, he had barely laid down when a Wolverine appeared from the forest and ran around the lake. A while later, he ran back again, and a different individual appeared an hour or so later. We were also fortunate enough to see a lone wolf, as he moved between the trees. Wolves are very endangered in Europe, and this was really special for us. He was a large silver male, almost ghostly in the mist. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPjM_Rgi9WfTFksOzBvcOZZxw1kIw8O0M51v_MAMglATfr_XDMJuup87aSm4LnmVsfu58KtqE2i4tfXKYCiYyg7B_jigZq7HBw99ZGQe48ZEmLx6B18B_vxS93Mra-SGn5BR4diicP7w/s1600/_MG_2743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPjM_Rgi9WfTFksOzBvcOZZxw1kIw8O0M51v_MAMglATfr_XDMJuup87aSm4LnmVsfu58KtqE2i4tfXKYCiYyg7B_jigZq7HBw99ZGQe48ZEmLx6B18B_vxS93Mra-SGn5BR4diicP7w/s400/_MG_2743.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The following morning after breakfast and a shower I passed out for a good 5 hours. One thing you learn quickly in the Arctic is to sleep whenever there is time, and to sleep well in the daylight. I out this to good use in Finland, and slept like a baby all day long until we woke to visit the hides again in the afternoon.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It was really quite an experience staying in the hides. They were small, hot and uncomfortable, but the sightings were like magic. To be able to watch wild brown bears in their environment, completely undisturbed was really special, and I will definitely be doing another few trips to see them. I believe April has far fewer numbers, but there is a good chance of seeing them in the snow. September is supposed to be great for the autumnal colours and the cold misty mornings. At the very least I would like to experience these two seasons with the bears, and maybe see a mother with cubs, or a bear climbing a tree. Either way, bears have certainly stolen part of my heart, and I dream about seeing them again soon. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">I should however warn that the mosquitos are giant, and tenacious. If you spray the anti- mosquito cream on them, they still don’t get deterred. I have proof in the form of 20 odd giant bites on my shoulders and elbows. Still, that’s hardly too high a price to pay for the opportunity to see a bear in the wild!!!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k2ojldgQ3puAydnes2N6Tjy2fqhVQo2YuTz-bDDVzXlrFv9Ql4Pyf1c5CblF8KmP1j6QCQpWh-c7SAo3YH1pW-1LNAqU4yuspjrm-nqiNlVXQPVNlOlYeLtRaI-TDhwwVZ2Oa65rAqM/s1600/_MG_5281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k2ojldgQ3puAydnes2N6Tjy2fqhVQo2YuTz-bDDVzXlrFv9Ql4Pyf1c5CblF8KmP1j6QCQpWh-c7SAo3YH1pW-1LNAqU4yuspjrm-nqiNlVXQPVNlOlYeLtRaI-TDhwwVZ2Oa65rAqM/s400/_MG_5281.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brown bear at Sunset, Hide 1</td></tr>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-63514343087168139922011-08-10T13:10:00.000+02:002011-08-10T13:10:14.519+02:00Cats and Flamingoes at Halali<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Our final three nights in Etosha were spent at Halali Restcamp, a camp situated more or less in the middle of the tourist area of the park. It is an area that is considerably different form Okaukuejo and Namutoni in that there are hills, and Mopani bush all around the camp. Once you break through the Mopani, you enter huge plains on either side, stretching as far as the eye can see, and the pan. The pan was the biggest surprise of all on this trip, as I mentioned in a previous post, as it was full of water. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Halali is known for its leopard sightings, and is the best part of the park to see this elusive cat, as the vegetation allows it to maintain its secretive lifestyle. We unfortunately did not see this cat this year in Etosha, but the other cats certainly showed themselves (finally!) around Halali. Each day here, we had numerous lion sightings, some good, some sleeping under bushes. The plains toward Okaukuejo are home to three waterholes, all in close proximity to each other, and on the edge of the pan. The lions live there. Everyday there were a couple sleeping inside the same clump of bushes. Every day the zebra herds came down in their hundreds to drink, under the watchful eye of these cats. We never saw them make a kill, but we did see them hunting, spreading out around the increasingly nervous herds on our last drive. We waited as long as earthly possible until we had to push on. If we had stayed, undoubtedly we would have got our kill, but it would have been a few hours in the making, time we didn’t have. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We also saw lions in the roads close to camp on two occasions. Both times they were hunting, fanning out then coming together until we lost them from view. The one was a group of three females, and the other a pride of 8 adults, who looked very menacing. We also saw a small group playing Goas, early on our last morning in the park. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Near Halali we had our first cheetah sightings of the trip, two different sightings of a female and cub. It was nice to see these cats, although I didn’t waste any hard drive space on the photo’s as they were very skittish and in the long grass. It was while watching the first of these that we noticed a strange colour in the pan. We looked and looked, and then dismissed it as our imagination. Our eyes were struggling enough to believe the quantity of water, yet alone comprehend the colour we could see. The following day we took a drive to the ‘pan lookout’ where before we had posed for a touristy shot on the edge of the endless white pan. When we arrived there, two things were immediately evident. One, there was no way we would be driving to the pan lookout, as it was covered in mud, tracks of cars who had got stuck, and water. And two, the colour we had been seeing was indeed pink, and did in fact belong to feathers of flamingoes! The flamingoes were amassed along the edges of the pan, strutting their stuff and ‘croaking’ loudly. The sound flamingoes make is strange, loud and Im not sure what it is called, hence ‘croaking’…</div><div class="MsoNormal">Sadly, we could not get close enough to them for decent pictures, but it was great to see the pan covered in pink like that. It was also totally unexpected as I had been under the impression January was the time for flamingoes!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The waterhole at Halali is not quite as productive as that of Okaukeujo, but it does well in its own right. It is on top of a hill, and has plenty of seating and a small, wooden roof for when it rains. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One looks down on the animals as they come to drink, and we saw quite a few hyena as well as black rhino on most evenings. It was bitterly cold though, and I struggled to stick it our for more than 2 hours before my hands had frozen closed and I was shaking uncontrollably. Dinner in the restaurant was not up to standard with Okaukuejo, although it was alright. The lunches were great though! They even had burgers which I can assure you went down a treat after toasted sarmies and two minute noodles or nothing.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Any one who decides to visit Halali should know that it’s a great place to spot a honey badger. All you need is a good ear, and some patience. The badgers have taken to raiding the bins there frequently, so basically you just need to sit and listen for a clang, and then run outside with a torch! The best place to be is in a campsite, but I was in a chalet on account of the cold which was keeping me sniffling, and I needed to get better before the Arctic! (poor excuse perhaps, but true…) My badger knocked over the bin outside our room on the second night, and I jumped up ever so quickly, fussed about for a spotlight and charged after him (leaving the camera behind like a fool). I followed him at a run as he marched off, disappointed that our bin had rewarded him so poorly. Badgers move fast when they are on a mission, I can attest to that. This little guy bunched up his muscles and jogged off, following his nose to the next bin, and the next. They don’t mess around either, tip the bin with one jump, head inside, quick investigation and off they go, either empty mouthed, or with a prized treat hanging from their jaws. What characters! Although I should warn you that if you get in their way they can be rather aggressive, so do give them some space! I eventually had to leave mine as he wandered into the staff area, but I was happy. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Leaving Etosha was sad, as I’m not sure when I’ll be back. Hopefully sooner rather than later, as it’s a magical park. The wildlife viewing is superb, the light is beautiful and in summer the storms and clouds are spectacular! There can be no favourite season, they are all good (except maybe February and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>march when game is very spread out and its HOT.) If you haven’t been yet, do try and go. If possible avoid the South African school holidays, and you may even find you have the roads to yourself! I look forward to my next visit, whenever it may be… </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><!--EndFragment--> Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-72001281197405031392011-07-07T16:44:00.000+02:002011-07-08T07:42:37.261+02:00A watery Namutoni<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">So Namutoni... We are camping here and I can say that it is very cold! Around -4 in fact, and my sleeping bag is definitely not rated down to that level. At night, there is a hyena constantly calling, and last night a lion serenaded us to sleep and back to wake a couple of times. I have a theory, that if you hear a lion before leaving the camp you are guaranteed not to see him. It always seems to work out that way, not surprisingly as they have so much land to walk, so what are the chances they are sitting on the road waiting for you? </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">This morning we had a look for the man who had keep us so wide awake, but just before the sun rose we found some wildebeest who we decided to backlight. Who wouldn't? Their manes and horns and tails look beautiful rimmed by the early suns rays. I was considering hopping out of the vehicle for a better angle when we heard a roar behind us, and the wildebeest began to snort and we knew we had our guy. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest at Dawn</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">We watched him for ages as he purposefully crossed the huge plain, before walking off into some bushes. Now I'm sitting at the waterhole in the direction he was heading, drinking some Douwe, eating some coca pops and hoping for the best as I warm my frozen fingers! It is incredible just how cold my hands get when taking photo's pre- dawn. I could hardly feel the shutter- need some proper gloves!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn Patrol</td></tr>
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The guineafowl are here as usual, pecking at the ground and stirring up the dust. Fortunately in winter here, the sun has real warmth, and it is a pleasure to sit and bask in it. The poor fowl spend the whole morning running in a panic to drink at the waters edge, before getting a fright and running away in a noisy, chirping cloud of dust. The one morning while drinking coffee at Chudop, I decided to count the guineafowl. My total was around 245. There are literally guineafowl everywhere in this park, and I am so surprised there are not more predators that have learnt to thrive on this easy meal.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guineafowl Fighting</td></tr>
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Last night we set out early for a drive to check Klein Namutoni for some shade to sit in instead of just lying in the tent. When we arrived, there were about 30 vultures next to the water, enjoying the sun. We positioned ourselves to shoot them as they flew off, as their large size means they often take off into the wind as its easier to get lift. Four hours later the last one left, and we were there to see him go. In that time we had a herd of Eland come to drink, many impala, countless giraffe, awkward as they splay their legs to get a better angle, kudu, 2 warthog- one of whom was a male who seriously wanted to get lucky with his lady friend. He actually chased her, with his head on her rump as she ran for at least 15 minutes. We also saw 2 of the vultures mating, seemed to be a Cape and a White- Backed, which was a little odd! </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Anyone who has watched giraffe drinking will have noticed that every minute or so they flick their heads, spraying water in an s-shaped arc before standing upright again. Apparently this is to stimulate blood flow back to their brains, and if they drink for too long without standing they could in fact die from the lack of blood flow! (I stand to be corrected, I'm no expert- just someone with an over-keen interest in wildlife and an over-enquiring mind!)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vulture Take-Off</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">That evening, just as the sun began to paint the water a delicate pink, a black rhino wandered out of the bush, and I finally got to photograph one of these shy animals out in the open, (and at dusk!) It was very exciting, watching him slowly weave his way toward the water, backtracking every few metres as he was very cautious and unsure out in the open like this. Black rhino are browsers, so when they feed it is in thicker bushy areas, which is why they are harder to see in the day time than White Rhino. I have rarely seen a black rhino so clearly, and so this was a real highlight.</span><br />
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We also enjoyed a dinner at the restaurant one evening. I had a fillet steak, and although not of the quality we would expect at home, it was a tasty meal, hot, and relatively tender. In other words, far better than the last time we were here when it tasted like a dead, sun dried shoe. As at Okaukeujo, the staff were also very friendly and I must say it appears as though the whole of Etosha has stepped up to the challenge of improving their standards.<br />
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The waterhole at Namutoni is nothing like Okaukuejo, and we have yet to see anything come down for a drink. However, the water holes in the surrounding areas are brilliant lighting and sightings wise. In the mornings we are not even sure where to go, the options are endless! The pan in this area is full of water- quite a surprise! And it makes for a beautiful backdrop. it gives the park a different feel as well, and is a stark contrast to the brown grass which lies all the way up to the very edges of the water. I am loving the game drives we have done out of Namutoni, and would in future spend more time at this camp. On both mornings we have also rocked up at the gate 20 minutes before opening and the guard has let us out!! I won't go into details about why I would be at the gate so early; suffice to say I'm a nerd, and I love early mornings when they are filled with the promise of an exciting new day! Being let out early was a huge surprise, you can't know how happy it made me!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giraffe at the flooded pan at sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some birding just inside the gate</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> One drive we had the strangest African Wild Cat sighting. He was so high up in a tree which was basically made of little dry twigs, no shade or cover, and looking extremely uncomfortable with life. Thoughts are that he was chased up there by something, as there is no way he would have chosen to sit in that tree. He was also panting like crazy, and balancing precariously on some spindly branches.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> Now its time for a toasted cheese and tomato, a quick photo download, and then more driving! This is the life- nothing is better than every day in the bush (in my opinion.)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">The Namutoni area has a drive which is aptly named and well known for the presence of Damara dik dik. These are very small buck, with beautiful huge watery eyes, which make your heart melt when they stare up into yours. I wanted one the second I saw it, I figured it could be a great friend for my Golden Retriever Anakin. Anyway, after deciding to steal one, we set out on the drive to find our lucky dik dik.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potential target... Dik Dik</td></tr>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">We saw 6 in all that drive, and a couple the following day, but as they looked so beautiful and happy in the bush, we left them there, hearts heavy... :) In all seriousness, they are very cute antelope, and surprisingly unafraid of the vehicles which trundle past them every day searching under bushes. Almost all of ours were in plain sight, and in the relative open.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A flock of Teal at sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful sunset at the pan</td></tr>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Basically, our routine at Namutoni was either Klein Namutoni or Chudop and the plains areas for sunrise, and the watery pan or Klein Namutoni for sunset. At sunrise Klein Namutoni can only be used to backlight animals, as the sun rises directly in front of you. Chudop is pretty good any time of day. The area further north is a huge open grassveld, and has been good for game in the past. This time we weren't so lucky, but it certainly can be productive. We wanted to stay longer at the camp, but it was full! It was just a really great area to drive, and we were happy there despite the ice cold tent at night!!</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Chudop early morning</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at the edge of the pan</td></tr>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Camping in winter in Africa seems to be very risky business. In Kalahari last year we had temperatures of -14, and here around -4 at night. Basically, be prepared, just in case!!</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, napping at the waterhole after a cold night</td></tr>
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</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Next time I am in Etosha I will definitely have 4 nights here... I can't wait! One of the challenges I set for the trip was to become better at bird ID'ing. Now, to put it lightly, I am useless, except with the everyday common birds. I am hoping to reach 70 that I positively identified, which means somewhere around 100 overall. (Yes, I am that bad!) </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Shouldered Kite- a common sighting on the plains.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kori Bustard at dawn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Booted Eagle? please correct me if wrong!</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">I could write forever about the things we saw, from small mongooses, to new raptors to Rhino, but I would certainly bore anyone reading this! Namutoni was great- go there and see for yourself one day, if you're fortunate enough to be able to...</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest on alert at dawn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rush hour in the water!</td></tr>
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</span>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8833673063814809703.post-89761411193835467612011-06-29T21:44:00.000+02:002011-06-29T22:02:38.294+02:00Classic Okaukuejo...<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">There is something timeless about sitting at a waterhole, coffee in hand, watching the night unfold in front of you. Nowhere is quite as iconic at Okuakuejo for that, countless rolls of film and memory cards having been filled in the past from the same piece of ground on which I now sit, sipping my hot coffee, in the brisk night air.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Earlier, when we arrived back from a drive and wandered down the sun was busy setting, a huge orange globe in an equally orange sky, while 2 elephant bulls drank, and a journey of giraffe made their cautious way down to the waters edge. It was beautiful, the sound of the sociable weaver nest above as the birds began to sing their last song for the night. As dusk deepens into night, the Rhino begin to arrive. It is almost a procession, one after the other, coming to slake their thirst in the inky black water. The elephant are never too happy with this, and often shake their trunks at the intruders.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">The chorus of jackal then starts up, each calling to the next, advertising territory, communicating predator presence, and discussing hunting grounds. And here I sit, camera next to me, safely on the tripod, coffee in hand, a full tummy from the delicious (surprisingly) Kudu steak and pepper sauce we were served at dinner. How perfect, does it get better than this?<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">An elephant bull has come down for a drink. In the silence you can hear every grumble of its tummy as it digests the few hundred kg's of food it ate today. Each slurp of water can be heard as it trickles down its throat. Earlier a black rhino walked right up to the barrier and I could see into its eye, barely 2 meters from me. As it broke of twigs from a bush, I could hear them crack, and each molar as it chewed them.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Suffice to say, I'm excited about being here. Its beautiful and rewarding, even if it means no sleep! Here's to not getting eaten as I sit alone, watching the night go by.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Seeing as I'm typing this while sitting enjoying my coffee, I'd like to add that the chorus of night sounds has just been improved by the call of a male lion, and the alarm calls of a zebra. The zebra calls are something very distinctive, a quick and repetitive high-pitched 'whoop whoop' sound, and it’s one of my favorites.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p>Day 2: </o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">The highlight of this afternoon was definitely the Zebra again at Okaukuejo. We did see some flat out lions, followed by an Aardwolf. The aardwolf was pretty exciting, one of the most exciting small mammals, its striped coat and shaggy fur quite distinctive. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra at dawn</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kudu reflection</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">We headed back early though, so as to spend the twilight hours at the water hole. I was hoping for some elle, as had seen a great shot yesterday, but didn't have my correct kit unpacked yet. This time I was ready, and all set up an hour before. The elephant never arrived, so I thought I would go home empty handed! Nature, however, had its own idea, and just as the sun began to dip below the horizon, a herd of zebra made their way down to drink, kicking up dust as they nipped each other playfully, before pausing to check the coast was clear. It was beautiful and although I'm sure ill look back at the shots and think ' I could have done more!' I am happy. It was one of the moments in time where I could see so clearly what I want from life.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">I had been dog tired, a result of the past 3 nights only totaling about 12 hours sleep in all. I was almost ready to call it a night as soon as dinner was over. Then the zebra came slowly through the trees and dust and I shot away to my hearts content. I knew then just how much I love photography. And how much I love being in the bush and in Africa. My heart felt as light as a feather. If ever a few months goes past without me picking up a camera and visiting the bush, I will be slowly letting myself die inside. There is nothing that feels so worthwhile or so rewarding as seeing nature in its element, and feeling like a small part of it.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">The jackals and lion are calling again, the first rhino has arrived for a drink, and I'm wide awake and full of anticipation. It is cold though, somewhere in the region of -2 degrees, as the thermometer lets us know every morning...<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">For anyone who is considering a trip to Namibia, I have a few things I would like to point out. Most of you will want to visit Etosha. Do so. Its a fantastic park, despite any bad service reviews (which are generally true by the way). If you like camping, that is the most economical way to stay in the park, although at around R300 a night, its not cheap. If you prefer chalets and see the price, faint, then wake up having decided not to go- this is for you.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Yes, the chalets are expensive. But bear in mind that with most you have breakfast and dinner included. Now, this is an understated advantage. When you arrive back from a game drive, you would usually have to start cooking. With this system, you arrive back and sit at the waterhole. After a while, the sun has fully set and you are bored of the steady procession of animals- its just too easy... (Jokes) and you wander down to a well lit dining area and help yourself to an array of salads, followed by meat and desert. So far we have been served Oryx steak, kudu fillet with pepper sauce, lamb chops, beef stew. And all have been surprisingly tasty. Its is such a treat to know that there is nothing for you to prepare or do, except sit as you will, relax, drink some wine and watch the elephant slaking their thirst.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnfMW-kKOh4oVNwzfw2s1yX6b6x_iy9FELawlY1bl5GbiCoU7ieSEp-IRKwBWc90IgLL_mx9JRxmzapjGjf-Y2NIghVW77_9CNFoPay-1R605_v5XyFX-Be2jLliInmFgLxBF_QIbueoI/s1600/_MG_7130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnfMW-kKOh4oVNwzfw2s1yX6b6x_iy9FELawlY1bl5GbiCoU7ieSEp-IRKwBWc90IgLL_mx9JRxmzapjGjf-Y2NIghVW77_9CNFoPay-1R605_v5XyFX-Be2jLliInmFgLxBF_QIbueoI/s400/_MG_7130.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">In the morning, breakfast starts an hour or so before th gate opens, so you can eat your fill before the drive. The breakfast is your usual buffet, fruit, cereal, eggs bacon sausage and an array of jams and bread. Nothing spectacular, but it certainly saves time and effort of packing pans, food etc for a picnic. Now, all that is left to do is make the coffee- strong preferably!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">If you camp, but factor in meals, you will be paying around R550 a person- not much less than the rate of a chalet. On this trip we have three nights in a chalet, and 6 camping, and I'm certain the 6 will not be as easy as the 3 we are nearly through with!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">As for the service, so far so good. The rooms have fresh crisp linen, smell sparkly clean, and aside from the canteen only having stock of the first 3 of 20 menu items, the people have been surprisingly friendly and helpful. The head (presumably) chef at Okaukuejo even takes great pride in his work, and loves to chat to us and find out how everything is. Last time I was here in 2009 this was not the case, and it remains to be seen if the rest of the park can live up to the standard of Okaukuejo. On that note- the correct pronunciation of this is O- cow- kwey- yo, just in case you were wondering!!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHvmNLDnEiJjtNY2dvW05eCrcj2T5OxBXr_qy8b2oK4DA9kUWLD9N97tulAm_EpKdJf7IYDy_-UZuoKQHHE2DydVmR0sfq99ge3fXsg27AVSJdpYInHHWS8gNxBRXDl_0dhMkG4NoLbs/s1600/_MG_6772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHvmNLDnEiJjtNY2dvW05eCrcj2T5OxBXr_qy8b2oK4DA9kUWLD9N97tulAm_EpKdJf7IYDy_-UZuoKQHHE2DydVmR0sfq99ge3fXsg27AVSJdpYInHHWS8gNxBRXDl_0dhMkG4NoLbs/s400/_MG_6772.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest at dawn near Okaukuejo</td></tr>
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Now, with a full tummy, I'm off to the water hole to listen to the lions roaring and the jackals crying (again- to be honest it never gets old. )</span></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15946956946897114536noreply@blogger.com2